So I want to Build a Hammer....

[JosephPrivott]

Boone is not the best place to hunt for scrap, least of which for something a stout as a PH. I've reviewed a goodly number of pictures and descriptions, admire the "Appalachian Power hammer" style. Through perseverance, I feel that I will be able to acquire the right things for it, although it may take time.

One of my questions to the forum is:
Which is preferable for the anvil, lead filled tubing, or solid steel?

Is it wise to use "free weight" plates for the anvil? There is an example on the APH gallery, although I didn't see how they were secured.

Other questions will follow, I'm sure, thanks gang

[Glenn]

Avoid lead and the related hazmat (hazardous materials) issues,

[ChrisB]

Look for a sheet of 4x8ft 1" steel. Cut into strips and then weld up an anvil.

[markh]

Use solid steel if possible. The plans for the Rusty hammer are for on the web.

[JosephPrivott]

Originally Posted by ChrisB

Look for a sheet of 4x8ft 1" steel.

So convenient!....not. Boone s dry of anything that fancy, and I would just as soon not cut it, compared to just buying ...1x4" strips and doing the same.

The lead I have no issue with; I'd be more concerned with the molten aspect. That being said, lead IS yucky stuff, and comments are duly noted.

Markh: "the plans for the rusty hammer are for __?_ on the web" what am I missing there? I know they are available for purchase.

Is this model more efficient while working than the EC-JYH? I know that the shocks on it are not the best format, but is that the only disadvantage? It might be easier to collect the parts for that style, I'm not certain yet.

[John B]

FERRUM D. Gentile: Krusty The 100 pound mechanical powerhammer
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From a previous posting, I'm just starting to try to make one based on these details, but round about the 50 pound mark from bits of metal I have lying around,

The only thing none too clear is if bearing metal is required for around the sliding ram, it indicates a couple of mm clearance all round, but I think I would prefer a brass lining even with this clearance. Time will tell.

[djhammerd]

I recommend a solid anvil, and the heavier... the better. Also, if you are going to build a mechanical, take a close look at the tire hammer. You can order plans for it, and it's probably the most efficient of the small homebuilt mechanicals...

[teejay]

For a nice small hammer about an 8lb head weight that hits like a 25lb hammer go to the blue prints BP0063. Its Jr. Strasil's baby helve hammer and it a great little machine! If you are good at finding stuff it will run you less than $400

[markh]

Here's the link for the App Pwr Hammer.
Appalachian Power Hammers--Order Plans
Here's a link for the tire hammer which is a lot better in my opinion.
Classifieds

[ptree]

I built a RUSTY type in 2002. I bought the plans and while they were somewhat helpfull, they are simply a hand sketch of the general idea and not a set of "Plans".
I next upgraded mine to a tire clitch and 45# ram. This style hammer is only slightly harder to fab up than the baby helve. If I simply wanted to draw I would build the baby helve. If you need to use top tools and need a guided ram, the pivoting spring helve is a little more work but gains function. I think the spring helve has just as much "Snap" as the dupont style mechanism of the LG and "tire hammer". # for # I can see no difference in hit from my spring helve to a LG.

For scrounging, Have a peek at my hammer across the street at Anvilfire on the powerhammer page. I used a hydraulic cylinder rear cap clevis for pivot, a scabbed together anvil and so forth. To build cheaply, one must be a scrounger, and be able to see the "re-purpose" in things one has to hand.
Good luck.