Russian hammer

[Minotaur]

Originally Posted by John N

I think it will be a vacuum oiler (ie no pump)

That makes sense.

Originally Posted by John N

The big end bearing on the Con rod will be grease lube, take a grease gun and give it a few shots. Similarly there will be a grease point where the crank exists the cylinder by the flywheel.

Yes, there is a grease nipple close to the flywheel which we gave a few shots. I didn't notice any other nipples on the hammer. I opened the oil bath cover and there seems to be plenty of grease where the con rod and camshaft meet.

Originally Posted by John N

If the valves are 'frozen' with rust there might be 2 covers on the other side of the cylinder. Remove all bolts, take the covers off and using a picece of wood drift the valves out, emery, oil & refit.

I think there will be a spring loaded ' clack' valve in the bottom valve - check this is free.

I did actually open the two covers. The spring loaded valve was free and shiny. There seemed to be a bit of rust on the other two, there are probably also frozen. I'll try drive them out the next time. Any advice on how to actually do this as you have to pull them towards you? Whit some sort of a inertia hammer?

Originally Posted by John N

Its sometimes a good idea to buy it before repairing it, the price might go up once its running!

That is a good advice. Though I don't think it'll be the case with this one. I've know the owner for some years and he isn't actively selling the hammer. I asked him whether he'd be willing to sell it and he sayed why not, if someone pays the same amount of money he payed for it.

[Mende]

I think you should get a few friends . .or just free up some time . .take it apart. . sand blast it, repaint it . .oil everything up ..and THEN start it up. .You risk damaging it further if you just squirt grease on some rusted parts and plug it in.

Plus. .Having it polished and painted will make you feel a lot better about it. .and will make us more jealous.

[John N]

there should be 2 covers on the other side of the hammer that you can take off, then tap (push) the valves out in the direction of hand levers (ie, when they are out you should be able to see right through the cylinder !)

Free the ram with a block and tackle / fork truck / hydraulic jack or similar (ie push it up!)

then put some heavy matting on the bottom die, if it starts rouge hammering it will take some of the shock out of it ! -

Never sand or shot blast a hammer - 1 little piece of grit will destroy a bore in 30 seconds (and you can never get it all out!)

[Feukair]

Very cool hammer. This forum is amazing. I havent had much time to post or even read lately but I just wanted to say that.

Guy finds old power hammer, labeled in foreign language, gets translations and great advice to get it working from people all over the world....

You guys are all awsome...

Lt

[Jose Gomez]

True.... It speaks volumes for the type of people that blacksmiths are... that when given the opportunity and a resource like this amazing forum, they will share all of the tricks of the trade, life lessons, and knowledge that they have worked so hard for. Thanks Glenn and everyone else that help to make I forge iron such an amazing resource.

[Glenn]

Ask a question from Finland and get answers from New York USA, China, Romania, North Wales UK, UK, Severin Romania, Michigan USA, the name plate translated from a photo in Russian by a Russian woman teaching mathematics in China, and you get suggestions on how to get the hammer working.

No questions about it, IForgeIron IS a International Blacksmithing site.

[Minotaur]

Originally Posted by Feukair

Very cool hammer. This forum is amazing. I havent had much time to post or even read lately but I just wanted to say that.

Guy finds old power hammer, labeled in foreign language, gets translations and great advice to get it working from people all over the world....
Lt

The power of internet! It is extremely nice to have a forum like this, where people are willing to help you and share their knowledge.

In regards of the hammer, I don't have time to go back to work with it right now, but when I have, I will take plenty of anti-rust lubricant and a bottle jack with me. I will try to loosen and prelubricate everything before running it. Thanks for the advices!

[philip in china]

Following those postings I suppose I ought to get some photos of my forge and post them. Just don't ask to look at my work. It is not a pretty sight.

[Valentin]

You can see here oil pump - Blacksmith Photo Gallery
this is my oil pump it's a hand pump looks a lot like yours but both mine and yours are missing something ...and that is a lever used to push and make presure to send oil throw the lines althow the hammer sucks oil i don't think it's compelty without a pump and some reasons that i think this way ... the oil lines are on top of the jar ... oil won't go up when the level is sinking and the second one ... mine is not like this mine has a manual pump ...i'll take a pic of it 2morow ...after beeing replaced and others have a engine pump ... so ... i whoud say some parts are missing from that pump

[Minotaur]

Valentin, do you see oil going through the glass pipe when the hammer is running?

In the one I'm planning to buy, the glass is broken and the owner sayed that oil squirts out through the crack.