Busted my powerhammer

[irnsrgn]

best idea yet

[stretch]

It looks like real old steel. I am not a metalurgist so don't know how to weld something like this, I know from welding the old purer iron that it is quite different. Have welded small amounts, just didn't need the strength this needs, just find an old early 50's truck axle and forge a new one if not sure how to weld it. Good place to learn something new

[ThomasPowers]

If you don't *have* to repair it; remaking from less stresed steel would probably be a good idea. I'd worry about the *other* end if you repaired the broken end as it's been stressed how many thousands of cycles too. Better to start all over.

OTOH we have all probably made repairs of necessity that then have gone on for years of service. I once made an exceedingly crude and ugly tool for a specific use telling myself I would replace it with a nicely made one when it broke---25 years later I am *still* waiting for it to break...

[imagedude]

Originally Posted by ApprenticeMan

WOW, that looks like cracks are running all up and down that bar.

I can see fractures running for half an inch in each direction hence my reluctance to attempt a welded repair, even though my father is a coded welder. The plane of the fractures is at 45 degrees to the holes drilled to accomodate the retaining pin for the hammer head.

[John B]

If I remember correctly this is not a simple bar, the end shown is retained in position by a wedge and retaining plate arrangement which allows the shaft to be removed.
The other end is a knuckle, with a pivot pin passing through, holding it to the hammer head.

I would still suggest getting a new one from Neville Barnes as per previous reply in this thread.

If the connecting rod replacement is not the correct length, the head will not strike parallel to the anvil face, limiting its use

It has been known on these hammers that if the head is not parallel to the face, then they can be adjusted by either using O/A to heat the bar and jump it up, to the required length, or remove and forge/ draw out to adjust to correct length.

This would seem to indicate that the material used for this particular application is not cast iron.

70 years old is I believe quite new compared to my Blacker. and I have fitted new parts to it supplied by Neville Barnes,

[imagedude]

Originally Posted by John B

If I remember correctly this is not a simple bar, the end shown is retained in position by a wedge and retaining plate arrangement which allows the shaft to be removed.
The other end is a knuckle, with a pivot pin passing through, holding it to the hammer head.

Correct, one end has a machined taper with a hole for the wedge, the other end has a ball joint with a hole for the retaining pin.

[imagedude]

Originally Posted by John B

I would still suggest getting a new one from Neville Barnes as per previous reply in this thread.

Ordered a new arm today.

cheers

Bob

[Fionnbharr (finn:-)]

Couldn't you afford two of them? If this one broke, how long till the other one goes, and would you be better off replacing them in pairs? Just a thought... ;-)

[imagedude]

Originally Posted by Fionnbharr (finn:-)

Couldn't you afford two of them? If this one broke, how long till the other one goes, and would you be better off replacing them in pairs? Just a thought... ;-)

I'll be replacing both and keeping the surviving arm as a spare. There was only one new arm in stock so I'll just be fitting one for the moment. The 2 new arms should outlive me.

[Ratel10mm]

Glad to hear you've got it sorted mate. See you at Owen's in March.