Appalachian Power Hammers

[larrynjr]

Looking at the basic design of the "Rusty / Dusty" AP Hammers and the Treadle hammer plans that are available from IFI. The basic framing seems to be about the same to me with at least one telling difference being the flat springs on the Rusty being used on the pivot arm on top and just the piece of 1 1/2" x 3/8" flat bar used on the treadle.

Appalachian Power Hammers

Is there a major benefit from using a flat spring for that pivot instead of the flat bar steel?

[keykeeper]

Larry,

I think I read somewhere that the Appalachian Power Hammer uses the spring to give it a "whip" action, thus more force on the downstroke of the hammer. The treadle would not need that, as there is not a camming action/linkage setup running the hammer, like the power hammer.

[larrynjr]

What I'm now considering is either building a Rusty style hammer instead of a treadle or a treadle that I could then convert into a Rusty. Would the solid pivot bar of the treadle still work for the Rusty or not provide enough snap power?

[ertwdan]

If you're going to put in the effort into a hammer you're better off looking at building the power hammer and ensuring that you encorporate a brake on the wheel. This will help you control the hammer to deliver 1 hard blow for using dies or set-tools(like a treadle) or full-on drawing down (like a power hammer).

Also check out the Clay Spencer Tire Hammer. It is also a junk-yard hammer, but it requires less of a footprint in your shop.

The treadle is a good starting point, but you really won't put too much more work into a power hammer and you can do so much more.

[ApprenticeMan]

Originally Posted by larrynjr

What I'm now considering is either building a Rusty style hammer instead of a treadle or a treadle that I could then convert into a Rusty. Would the solid pivot bar of the treadle still work for the Rusty or not provide enough snap power?

Larry, like Aaron said the spring pack as the top pivot is there to provide a slapping motion, if you had a hard link with the pittman then the hammer would come to peices fromthe directfeed back going into that part of the hammer, you need some give in between.

[ThomasPowers]

I second the idea that you look into the tire hammer!

[hammerkid]

HMMM ! I just got abunch of ideas , now all I need is a bigger shop ! I can get a washer or dryer motor from my uncle who just bought bigger washer& dryer , the old ones still work .

[R Funk]

As an mechancal engineer I donot see any snap action from spring shape.

I havenot done a detail analysis but see the ctrical isssue being thath the springs be assembled in tight packs with no free leaves and well guarded.

The sprung pack must be tight as a poorly guarded spring pack is likely to cause fatal injuries and a loose springing pack will cause operational irreqularities due to differring pring rates in the up and down operation of the hammer.

[Jose Gomez]

Another purpose of the leaf spring on the top of the rusty/crusty/dusty style helve hammers is to supply a flexible linkage used to couple the drive assembly to the ram. If a rigid bar or beam were used in place of the spring the hammer would only be able to strike at 1 precise measurement. Meaning, without the spring, if one were to attempt to forge on stock that was large enough to prevent the hammer from reaching the bottom of it's stroke the machine would bind up and essentially just clamp down on the work piece. The spring is in place of the rigid bar in order to suppy the drivetrain with a flexible point that allows the hammer's flywheel to complete its revolution without binding entirely. This spring is not necisarry on treadle hammers because the ram is couppled directly to the linkage that is driven straight up and down by the smiths foot, not in a circle like the flywheel of the spring helve hammer. If a rigid link is used on an Appalachian Power Hammer it will not function properly.

[Farmer Phil]

Originally Posted by ertwdan

If you're going to put in the effort into a hammer you're better off looking at building the power hammer and ensuring that you incorporate a brake on the wheel. This will help you control the hammer to deliver 1 hard blow for using dies or set-tools(like a treadle) or full-on drawing down (like a power hammer). Also check out the Clay Spencer Tire Hammer. It is also a junk-yard hammer, but it requires less of a footprint in your shop. The treadle is a good starting point, but you really won't put too much more work into a power hammer and you can do so much more.

Does the tire hammer have a brake?