anyang 33lb

[IronWolf]

Larrynjr
That link to Graham Manufacturing is no longer in Biss
The owner Bob Graham pasted away late last year
He was the only sale's man for USA that I know of ?
Someone needs to talk to Anyang about PH sale's and Part's in the USA
there's alot of anyang's out there

[IronWolf]

PS also interesting is that most folks have a warm up problem time wise ??
I have yet had this problem on new 1 year old #33 yet

[John N]

There are one or two people in discussion about picking up the USA distribution I know of, be patient and im sure there will be news in a couple of weeks or so.

I will post some pics of the oiler (well, non return valve) mods, and the way I crown the rings off, they are on my works computer, so might be a day or 2 (im pulled out busy at the moment), jobs that pay the mortgage are having to take priority!!!

Ive sold a lot of the 33lb hammers, and I test them all before they go out. some require a warm up , some dont. Air hammers all have an individual 'signature' , and no 2 are identical. I was taught this by time served 'Massey' hammer engineers. It is to do with subtle differences in the casting for the air ways etc inside the machine.

To cut a long story short the ones that take (in my opinion) to long to warm up I relieve the piston rings to reduce the friction area between the rings and the ram bore.

heres a photo of a chunky billet being welded up on the 33lb at Owen Bush (bladesmith) recent sword forge in event in London UK. This is my 'demo' hammer that I lend to forge ins for folks to try!

[mark stephen]

I hated my anyang.It gave me nothing but greif from the moment it arrived at my door.Terrible customer service came with it.

[Dave M]

Home of the Kittery Trading Post.

[IronWolf]

I would like to Thank anyone with any info on any kind of PH ! I have on site and working
Anyang #33 & in the works a #65 champion
Mark why what was the problem ? & yes I had problems with oiler or I should say the one
way valve on top of oiler and the one that go's in to the hammer, that needs to be fixed !
/ replaced with something better, not a big deal If you ? it take it off PH and blow through
it both ways if it works both ways its junk should ONLY go one way ! / oil flow in to hammer

Again Thanks for Info

[larrynjr]

Originally Posted by MooseRidge

Grew up in Windsor, Maine.....

quite a few of us ex-Mainiacs around seems like! The rest of my family is still in Maine and I usually get back there every few years. I'm sending my girls to visit the relatives this summer.

[John N]

This photo shows the modification I do to the lubrication system on the Anyang hammers,

The 15kg (33lb) Anyang hammer only has one oil feed pipe, but the principle is the same,

The factory 'non return' valve is in the connector where the oil pipe enters the cylinder of the machine, just remove the ball and spring from this.

With the new non return valve fitted the oil flow can be set exactly, with a very consistant 1 drop every 10 seconds, or whatever is right for your machine so the ram is slightly oiley in use.

When you fit the valve check that the oil is getting past it, ie the spring is not to heavy in the non return valve. This is easy to check on the later hammers with clear oil lines. It is easy to convert the earlier copper piped hammers to clear lines. 5 min job!

I make this modification to all hammers prior to shipping to customers.

Hope this helps some folks!

[John N]

Some 33 lb hammers take a while to warm up. In my opinion this is because the piston rings are tight in the ram bore, and the ram does not have enough mass / inertia to overcome this friction until the hammer is hot and 'loosened up'.


I modify the piston rings on a belt finisher to change the external profile. I leave a 'land' in the middle that is still flat & thus proves the pneumatic seal required. If you are going to do this do it 'little by little' until the hammer feels right. There is a knack to removing the piston rings. I forge the ends of a few nails flat on the anvil and use them as little 'tire levers'! - its still easy to stab a screwdriver through your hand removing them (yup, I've done it) so be careful! - hopefully the sketch below makes this clearer.

[mike-hr]

John, the pictures are a great help, thanks. I'm a bit muddy on the non-return valve. I researched mcmaster-carr, McMaster-Carr which is one of the bigger industrial suppliers in the USA. I went to 'process contol' on the front page, then clicked on 'check valves' . The two that looked like what you use are either 'ball check valves', or 'spring loaded check valves'. They both look like they would work. There seems to be a choice of cracking pressures, 1 PSI, or 2PSI. Am I on the right track here? Which type would you recommend?

Thanks again for helping with this. Bob Graham never seemed overly concerned with little issues like this, I appreciate that you've identified a problem, and found a fix.
mike