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What is a good size for a welding table?

This is a discussion on What is a good size for a welding table? within the Welding/Fab General Discussion forums, part of the Welding / Fabrication category; To each is his own. It depends on the person, work you do, and how hard you work. Thats all....


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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-07-2007, 05:07 PM
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To each is his own. It depends on the person, work you do, and how hard you work. Thats all.
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Old 12-08-2007, 12:30 PM
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To add to what gerald said about particle board, Max also can get rid of a warped top and a fresh one in place pretty fast and cheap. Like Dodge I have 1 3/4 top on mine. Old exterior door.
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Old 01-01-2008, 11:08 PM
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at the shop we do almost 100% architectural and the way we work I can't see particle board. We are constantly tack welding jigs to make parts or jigs to assemble parts to the tables (which there are 5 main tables most being 5' x 10' x 1" ) and a new 16" x 12' made from 16" x 1/2 inch beam channel. (the other half of that beam I'm angling to acquire for my first table)

we'd be spending a huge amount of time securing jigs and replacing table tops

the advice Ive gotten from my boss on getting a table is 1" thick plate, and go pick it out yourself verifying its not warped, because if it is, you stand a snowballs chance in the forge of bending it or grinding it flat in the shop.
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Last edited by Ice Czar; 01-01-2008 at 11:10 PM.
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Old 01-01-2008, 11:42 PM
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I have a buddy who made his top out of metal impregnated carbon strips from electric trains. He scratch starts from he shoes, doesn't need to attach a ground clamp to his work piece and the weld won't stick to it. Totally impractical for most people but it is different, but so is my friend (on both counts).
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Old 01-07-2008, 03:29 PM
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I haven't really learned much of welding yet, how often or how much of a problem is inadvertently welding your project to your metal table? Would a non weldable surface be preferred?
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Old 01-07-2008, 11:21 PM
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Tack welding can be used for electrical continuity or to keep parts from shifting. Tacking or welding to a work table is good when you want to dog things down, bend, push, pull, or whatever. Just break the tack and erase the evidence with a grinder.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 01-08-2008, 01:08 PM
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Metal table tops are the way to go for welding tables, I won't say it can't or has never happened but I personally have never (accidentally) welded my work to the table, but have had the need to tack it down like Glenn mentioned.

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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 01-09-2008, 03:00 AM
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as mentioned stuff is welded down both on purpose and quite often accidentally
but the accidents generally lack any real penetration, sometimes its more important to get that nice clean weld in a corner and the slight overspill tack to the table can either be cut\ground or cracked off

the main reason you want a good thick steel tabletop is rigidity, welds "pull"
a slight deflection isnt that big a deal on a small scale, but a long railing, it starts to add up.

"pro" tables are often a thick gridwork
Acorn Welding Table
where pretty things get welded, no tacking, adjustable dogs\clamps\ect
but we pound, grind, and dent all our pretty metal before it even starts to get welded, so a solid top is much cheaper
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Old 01-09-2008, 04:07 AM
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Acorn Tables

Acorn Accessories
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  #20 (permalink)  
Old 05-04-2008, 01:49 AM
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Both of my tables have 1" thick tops. Believe it or not, this is not overkill. Any less than this will eventually warp. Even with 1" plate, I try to avoid tacking/grinding. I do it if I must, but usualy cut the tacks off with a sharp cold chisel. Both of my tables have I-beam frame work, six legs, and are 35" tall. One is 5'x8', one is 3.5'x14' They are easily the most important tools in my shop.
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