Welding nuts or bolts to metal

[Glenn]

A tapered drift should aid in alignment.

[Ten Hammers]

Lets say you have 3/4" pipe and a hole drilled in it (next sized over 3/8). Take a setup bolt ( 3/8 x 2 ) and put a nut down to the bottom of the threads. Dip the exposed threads in some vaseline or whatever you use for nozzle gel. Place the bolt through the hole and place another nut in the end of the pipe and tighten the nut thus holding the bolt tight in the pipe. Set the bolt paralell to the table and make down welds on the outside nut from each side. If you have a hundred of these to do, the man may object to your procedure ( time ). Then you do same ( nut on bolt to bottom of threads, then dip in grease ). Take a pair of # 17 t vise grips and weld a piece of angle on the bottom jaw ( to recieve the pipe ). The top jaw goes on the bolt head and close the clamp. This holds the bolt firm in the pipe and weld as noted. Remove the bolt with a pair of pliers. This actually works better than the nut inside but you need dedicated clamp for the procedure or grind the angle off. IF the weld makes it into the threads you may work back and forth with a wrench to save the nut. Experience will tell you how big of hole to drill for the bolt to pass through. If you need to put a nut on the corner of a piece of square( for strength ) you can make passes on the edge of where the nut will be welded ( since you have exposed threads that are hard to not weld). Let the color go from the weld and then make another pass to the nut thus attaching the nut and not welding the threads. You can also try and tack to the outside of the square corner to hold the nut first. USE grease( whieither nozzle gel or Vaseline) to dip the threads. Yes it will smoke. All in your needs. A pipe clamp ( call them Pony if you wish ) with the sliding end removed is helpful for plate. Make the pipe 6-8" long ( for a very short clamp ). Black pipe. Keep this for many shop uses. Remove the sliding end and tack the pipe beside the bolt to be held ( tack on the bolt side ). Unscrew the clamp and place a piece of rod or square from your collection between the clamp and the bolt head. Screw the clamp tight to hold the bolt/nut down to weld ( this is out of position issue that works nice ). Twist the pipe to remove and grind. PUT THE SLIDER BACK on the pipe ( I never lose stuff do you ? ) As noted a piece of broken pallet or whatever else will hold the head of the bolt down if gravity or position is in your favor. Sometimes you just got to Clampett, Jed.

[pete46]

Clampett Jed !
I Hate That I'm Old Enough To Get That Joke!
Well Got'ta Get To The Cement Pond For The Turtle Race!

[Ten Hammers]

I also might add that if you have an issue for centering, wheel bolts ( or studs ) and nuts work nicely. The back of the leg vise in the shop is mounted to the table with them ( studs through plate from the bottom and nuts on top, plate then welded to table ). Alignment of holes was critical to keep plate square for good joint to weld but fairly close worked nicely. I'll rustle up a pic if I can.

[sstreckfuss]

Originally Posted by Finnr

I weld all the way around a nut with a bolt in place to keep the threads clear. I use duct tape on the bolt so I can save it.
Finnr

I use the exact same method except I use masking tape in place of duct take, we don't have duct tape laying around the shop or I would probably use it.