Weaving Mig Torch + or - ?

[racer3j]

I notice on most demos of migs the instructors track a straight line and end up with what I consider to be high beads. I weave a mig, just like I do a torch, push- making instant micro adjustments to the weld attack as I do so. As a result, if power and gas and workmetal is right, my beads are nearly flat with the distinctive pattern similar to a very good stick weld. A fillet weld is done the same way with more attention on the up "micro-stroke" to carry the puddle up onto the vertical with the same penetration. On a T joint of 1/4 steel plates, my fillet may be about 5/16" wide with full penetration but no burn through and will be very slightly concave. This is with a Lincoln SP170T 75/25 and .035 7018 wire.

Does anyone else here have a favorite mig torch control pattern?mike

[HWooldridge]

I usually do little circles - my welds usually are similar to a 7014 stick bead. Straight line will produce a flatter bead if you move along at a good clip but with the wire constantly advancing, staying in one place too long will pile up the metal.

[Mills]

When I get the air gap right I have no trouble going to town in a straight line.

[racer3j]

Air gap- makes me hungry for breakfast. The sound of bacon sizzling. Knowing an individual machine contributes a great deal to techniques other than just push on ahead. I would have to fiddle around on someone else's unit before I could get similar results.

I know some folks who buy a longer accessory nozzle and then rest it on the work to maintain arc distance. Never worked for me.

You will hear me refer to "quick and dirty" regarding mig. But, the fact is I get great satisfaction laying down a mig bead that resembles a certified pipeline, or nuke plant welder's best stick weld. For so long I did 4130 and mig just isn't as reliable on that alloy.

I recently cleaned up my mig- It now sees more use on cable ends or billet stacks. I would use it more often if I did not have to listen to the infernal racket that the ten horse Tecumseh generator makes- even with the accessory, supposedly more quiet muffler.mike

[JAllcorn]

I've lately switched to CO2 gas in my Lincoln 215. Seems I have to run higher amps compared to mix gas, 75/25. This is with standard ER7OS-6 wire, "G" amp setting/350 ft/m. (CO2 is cheap but weld appearance is marginal, penetration seems good to very good.)
With ER80S-Ni1, 75/25 gas Miller Extreme 12VS feeder, 28-30 volts, 350 f/m, weld penetration is excellent w/ fair to good appearance.
Normally a weave or some movement is used on any weld of any length in my shop. The sound of bacon is good.

[SGropp]

I get the cleanest ,flattest weld beads doing spray transfer arc mig using 98% argon , 2% oxygen for both mild steel and 300 series stainless.Keeping the proper gap between workpiece and nozzle [ about 1 nozzle diameter] is best for smooth shielding gas flow . When everything is just right the arc sounds like a jet engine, no popping or stumbling. the metal is just pouring off the end of the electrode wire in a smooth cone shaped spray.
The machine has to have enough power to run at above the transition point to spray transfer arc [24 V and up ] DC, electrode positive.
I'm using a couple of Miller XMT 304 inverter multiprocess welders in my shop, single phase, extremely efficient machines. These power sources are running Miller 122S wire feeders with either a Tweeco or Miller 400 amp gun These were expensive industrial duty machines, but it was money well spend for the speed and quality of results. They can also TIG, Stick and Carbon Arc Cut with the proper accessories.

[Ten Hammers]

I also like to run on the high side of voltage. Running vintage Miller CA 250's and 300's with old miller feeders. The sound approaches a hiss when the wire is right. Straight bead. Proper nozzle placement and normally zero splatter. Production speed welds. A BOT can't do this specific work due to pretty bad fab work. This leads to the human element of pause a bit whenever you need to fill and scream when you can. I very much enjoy this procedure. Everyone learns different. Staying low and bouncing off the floor with a straight bead you will have no issues with rolling or cold lap. Enough heat is the key. I might also add that with pulse, you may get a rolled edge under until you acquire nozzle angle and feedrate skills. Pulse is really nice.

[Scratch]

I used to do little circles when welding MIG, but I heard sometime last year from a welding instructor, that when doing that, you can get a little contamination when the wire comes back around the circle into the same location that it's already been in, and the puddle had started to cool. He suggested a "constant forward C shaped zig zag pattern" instead of the circular pattern. That way the contaminated wire will never be in the same spot twice.

It made sense to me so I started doing it. I can honestly say after about a year of it, I like the beads better than the circular pattern I use to do.

He did say that it didn't make a huge difference doing it that way, and you can still get a very strong joint, but hey... free dummy...

[racer3j]

Your description of the taught technique exactly described my weave.mt

[drone]

Hello Fellas,

I use the short arc process welding ER-70S6 or 308L and when I do I generally run a C shaped pattern rather I am welding a fillet or a v-grove. Rather I push or pull the wire depends on the thinkness. Pushing makes a flatter bead and less penatration but alot of splatter. Pulling the wire digs in the parent metal for more penatration and less splatter. You as a welder and the weld you are about to make have to make that determination. All welders have there own quirks on how they put down that perfect bead some z's some c's you just have to play with it untill you find the way it lays down right for ya. Its all about angle and speed. Pete