Craftmans-Sears stick welder?

[Golden_eagle]

I'm being given a OLD(14-45 years out of service) 240amp 220volt Craftsman stick welder and some old hard facing rods(around 200 or so)
I Know i need a mask, gloves and Some scrap to learn on... Am i missing anything? (other than normal welding rods)

[rlarkin]

Electricity?

[Pault17]

GE,
I don't know that I would start with hardfacing rod. Go and pick yourself up some 6010 or 6011, or even a small pack of 7018 or its AC equivalent.

Is your machine an AC/DC or just AC. that will determine what rods to get.

Now that I read your whole post, you will need lotsa electricity and the appropriate rods (ac vs dc).
crank it up to 95 amps, angle the stick into the direction of travel about 15 or 20 degrees, strike an arc and burn rod

7018 will probably be the easiest to start an arc with, but I learned with lots of 6011 on a DC machine. way coool and lotsa lotsa fun

[agsolder]

7018 makes a beeeyoootiful bead, but is sometimes hard to get re-started because the rod burns back inside its carapace of flux. 6011 is my all-around fave, 'cause it floats the slag out, unlike 6013, which can give you inclusions. 6011, however, will never make a pretty, smooth bead like 7018. Do not start open-bottomed welds with 7018-- lay in a basement pass of 6011 first.

[Crunch]

I agree with the previous posters. I am also a new weldor and I really like the 6010/6011 rod.

If you have an AC-only welder, I'd recommend some 6011 rod. It digs deep and is not hard to work with in my very limited experience and expertise.

6010 is basically the same rod, but it's only for DC.

If you have an AC/DC welding machine, 6011 is probably a better choice since you can switch to AC with it if you get problems with arc blow.

Good luck.

Edit: If you want an auto-dark helmet, check out the $50 model at Northern Tool and Equipment. I have one and like it a lot.

[Golden_eagle]

Yes its AC/DC, And I know where welding rods are available, Crunch- thanks for the hint about the $50 Northern Tool auto-dark mask, the one i was looking at was $99.

[Pault17]

Hey GE,
I lave been using the Northern tool auto dark for about 6 months and it works great!
I figure that if I want to get really serious I could get a real pricy one

[Hillbillysmith]

Just a little tip to all those that are new to welding: Welding supplies/equipment isn't cheap. And keep in mind, YOU GET WHAT YOU PAY FOR!!! Auto-darkening helmets are nice, but any of them below $200 (in my experiences) are not going to last very long, but they should be just fine for garage use. I, personally, prefer a normal non-auto darkening helmet. They're cheap and will always work. Especially for stick. Just my opinion. You can do as you wish.

And more info to those new to welding---

ELECTRODE CLASSIFICATION BREAKDOWN:
(example):E-7018=
"E"= Electrode.
"70"= 70,000 pound tensile strength. (This refers to the deposited weld metal
after it is cool.)
"1"= The position it can be welded in.
"18"= The polarity in which it can be run on.

POSITIONS:
Exx1x=All positions
Exx2x=Flat and horizontal fillet welds only
Exx3x=Flat positions only
Exx4x=Flat, horizontal, overhead, and vertical down

POLARITIES:----AC=Alternating Current
----------------DCEP=Direct Current Electrode Positive
----------------DCEN=Direct Current Electrode Negative
EXX10=DCEP
EXX11=AC/DCEP
EXX12=AC/DCEN
EXX13=AC/DCEN
EXX14=AC/DCEP/DCEN
EXX15=DCEP
EXX16=AC/DCEP
EXX18=AC/DCEP
EXX20=AC/DCEN (for horizontal fillet welds only) AC/DCEP/DCEN (for flat position welding only)
EXX24=AC/DCEP/DCEN
EXX27=AC/DCEN ((for horizontal fillet welds only) AC/DCEP/DCEN (for flat position welding only)
EXX28=AC/DCEP
EXX48=AC/DCEP

AWS Classification----Type of covering

E6010----------------High Cellulose, Sodium
E6011----------------High Cellulose, Potassium
E6012----------------High Titania, Sodium
E6013----------------High Titania, Potassium
E6020----------------High Iron Oxide
E6022----------------High Iron Oxide
E6027----------------High Iron Oxide, Iron Powder
E7014----------------Iron Powder, Titania
E7015----------------Low Hydrogen, Sodium
E7016----------------Low Hydrogen, Potassium
E7018----------------Low Hydrogen, Potassium/Iron Powder
E7024----------------Iron powder, Titania
E7027----------------High Iron Oxide, Iron Powder
E7028----------------Low Hydrogen, Potassium/Iron Powder
E7048----------------Low Hydrogen, Potassium/Iron Powder

You may also encounter an electrode that has extra suffixes attached to the tail end (E10016-D2)

These extra suffixes indicate extra alloying elements within the electrode.

ALLOYING ELEMENTS: (Reference the "Periodic Table Of Elements")
A1----------1/2% Mo
B1----------1/2% Cr, 1/2% Mo
B2----------1-1/4% Cr, 1/2% Mo
B3----------2-1/4% Cr, 1% Mo
C1----------2-1/2% Ni
C2----------3-1/4% Ni
C3----------1% Ni, 0.35% Mo, 0.15% Cr
D1----------0.25-0.45% Mo, 1.25-2.00% Mn
D2----------SAME AS D1^
G-----------0.50% minimum Ni, 0.30% minimum Cr, 0.20% minimum Mo, 0.10% minimum V, 1.00% minimum Mn, 0.80% minimum Si (Only one of the listed elements is required for the "G" classification).

LOW HYDROGEN ELECTRODE APPLICATIONS (USE)
E7015-----Used for welding low carbon or alloy steels. Power shovels and other earthmoving machinery require this rod. The weld files or machines easily. Use DCEP only.
E7016-----Same general application as E7015 except it can be used on either DCEP or AC.
E7018-----Similar to E7015 and E7016. The heavy covering allows the use of high speed drag welding. Used on AC or DCEP.
E7028-----For low carbon alloy steels. Use AC or DC (either polarity).


I hope this helps all those in need of more or better information to progress in their stick welding skills. Remember; practice is the key, you can't expect yourself to go from zero to welding ASME code high-pressure vessel steam lines over night.

I have a couple more simple tips:
First, E6010 and E6011 are basically the same rod. E6010 is meant for DCEP only and E6011 is meant for either AC or DCEP. They run the same, so it doesn't matter which one you practice with. These rods you use a "whip-and-pause" motion when running them. --><--/--><-- You "whip" out of the puddle to burn out the base metal and then come back in and "pause" to fill up the weld bead.

Secondly, E7018, you use an "up-and-down" motion with this rod. /\/\/\/\/\/ Pausing at the top just a little more than the bottom because gravity will pull it down. When using this electrode, be sure to angle the rod back toward the puddle to keep the molten slag from running in front of the puddle. if this happens, STOP!!! You WILL get slag inclusions at the root. There is no way to fix this while welding. Stop, ship out the slag from the root and restart. Some manufacturers make a separate E7018 rod for AC and DCEP. Although according to code, they are all supposed to run the same on either polarity. They don't and that's that.

Thirdly, The most common rods you will run into are E6010/E6011, E7014, E7018, and E7024. E6010/E6011 are run the same way (as I explained previously). All other rods are run mostly SIMILAR to E7018 except E7024. E7024 is only to be dragged along the weld joint. NO MOTION AT ALL WITH THIS ROD. You will get slag inclusions if you do. **Little trick with E7014** Don't use in vertical fillet weld positions. It says it can be used that way, but it won't come out right. And, it works best on AC.

lastly, not all welding rods are going to run the EXACT same. From Lincoln to Hobart and from Esab to Forney, different rod manufacturers design their welding rod material as well as their flux covering differently than everyone else. Play around and find out which brand of which rod works best for you.

Practice, have fun and don't just stick it together; WELD IT!

[Hillbillysmith]

Hardfacing electrodes and specialty electrodes (for special alloy steels) are a whole 'nother ball game. The same goes for stainless steel electrodes as well. And forget about welding cast iron. It is POSSIBLE, but you need to know what type it is and everything. it's best to just braze it when you can.

Best of luck,
-Hillbilly

[Golden_eagle]

Thanks Hillbilly! The explanation of rod comp. will help out a lot!