Blacksmith and Metalworking Forum
This is a discussion on Toanneal or not to Anneal, that is the question... within the General Discussion forums, part of the Copper, Brass, Bronze, and Tin Smithing category; I plan to start on a new project in a week that part of which will involve me making a ...
| |||||||
| Register | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| ||||
|
I've dished some much smaller copper bowl shapes, and I did need to anneal. Copper work hardens slower than some other metals, but it still needs to be anealed if you are going to bend it very far. My project fit into my enameling kiln, so I used it to heat the piece, and quenched in water, then used warm jewelers pickle to clean off the scale. I'm not sure I'd have a good plan for an object the size you are working. Maybe a big kiln, or bonfire? |
| ||||
|
heat it till it glows a dull red and hold it there for around 30 seconds. wait till the colour runs out of it and quench it in water. as soon as it feals hard under the hammer , anneal again, normaly 30-50 hammer blows depending on what it is.
|
| ||||
|
Andy has it right. Although if it's something I can work hot, I don't bother quenching. Heating to a dull red is what softens it. Quenching cools it enough to handle. This pendant was made with copper ground wire and totally hot forged. Just remember when hot forging to watch your piece carefully and not let it get above a dull red. Copper melts easily. Also when hammering, use a practice piece first to get an idea of when it work hardens. It's not quite as easy to tell as iron. If you continue hammering after it's work hardened it'll become very brittle and will chip, split, and crack.
__________________ Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, with hammer and tongs in hand, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming.....Hey St. Pete...which way to Heaven's Blacksmith Shop? |