Blacksmith and Metalworking Forum
This is a discussion on Popcorn finish within the Finish and Polish forums, part of the Bladesmithing category; I have a question, does any one kow how to do "Popcorn surface" as seen on many Japanese tools ?...
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I believe Tyler is on the right track, all of what I have learned so far seems to point in this direction. Not sure is we can do the surface using Western alloys of steel...does any one know more ? THis has been a great help so far, I will try and find a pic for example. |
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I no longer heat treat directly in contact with the fuel, so I can't tell you what steels it will definately work with, BUT, any steel will decarburize and carburize, thus it should work with any steel, BUT some steels are more resistant to decarb. I believe O-1 is one of them, off the top of my head.
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Found a fair shot of an old plane blade with the surface I an trying to make... Japanese woodworking plane Tsunesaburo Last edited by Roger Keagle; 03-03-2007 at 03:39 AM. |
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Looks like he used acid since even his touch marks are effected,or he tossed some metal filings on his anvil and worked the hot piece on top,easy enough to try!Then again maybe your thinking of a japan finish like you see on old binoculars and such thats like a black crinkle paint. |
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Not sure if this will give you what you want but I have seen a method of forge texturing demonstrated by George Dixon. He heats his piece in the forge and lets it scale real good then picks off spots of the scale with his fire pick and scales some more, picks some more, repeat and repeat and repeat..... His finished piece did not have as fine of texture as the piece you showed but if you carried it to an extreme (repeat, repeat etc.) I don't know. This would involve some major grain growth in any tool steel which would require grain refining heat cycling for sure. George was using it for decorative pieces. Nice effect when the textured piece is stacked behind a pierced piece overlay. I think I have seen him do this in both gas and coal forges. Am guessing it might be a little quicker and easier to control (see) in a coal forge heating the piece hard from underneath and leaving the top surface exposed to the air. |