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Beeswax and Linseed oil

This is a discussion on Beeswax and Linseed oil within the Finish and Polish forums, part of the Bladesmithing category; I heard about this and tried it but ended up with a mess. I mixed the oil with beeswax and ...


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Old 12-15-2007, 09:59 PM
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Default Beeswax and Linseed oil

I heard about this and tried it but ended up with a mess. I mixed the oil with beeswax and heated to melting then painted it on. When the wax set up all I seemed to have was a hardened wax coating on my project. I was able to peel off the heavy stuff and it did polish up good after.

Is this what I should have ended up with or did I not put in enough oil?

It was very difficult to get out of the nooks and crannys. If this is the result I will need to find something else.

Help from anyone......?
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Old 12-15-2007, 11:34 PM
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I use three parts beeswax, two parts boiled linseed oil and two parts turps. Warm it slowly over an electric burner in a double boiler. I either paint it on black hot metal and then cook it a bit in the forge or apply a very thin coating with a rag. It is also a good wood finish.
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Old 12-16-2007, 12:14 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Finnr
paint it on black hot metal Finnr
HEAT THE STEEL.
THAT'S WHAT WORKS 4 ME!
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:12 AM
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This is certainly not something I would recommend doing to a knife blade. For knives the best thing I've found is just a good coat of caranuba automotive paste wax. Put it on just like you would a vehicle.

For ornamental ironwork, I use a mixture of canning wax, beeswax, japan drier, and turpentine. As has been mentioned, the key is to heat the object your coating, generally to a "black heat", then wipe the mixture on. The liquid portions of the mix will be evaporated, leave a fine, even coat of the solids to protect your work.
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Old 12-16-2007, 09:41 AM
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Not something you want to use on food related items either. For that I have been using spray on canola or olive oil from the grocery store.

I heat and mix my wax mixture on a hotplate right in the old dutch oven I keep it in, outdoors.

If you have a spot where the wax is too thick after your piece cools just pass that area over your coal forge, or in front of your gasser, and wipe it down again.
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Old 12-16-2007, 01:42 PM
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Thanks....... sounds like my biggest problem may have been not using enough oil to properly thin the mixtue. I will try again.
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Old 12-16-2007, 03:10 PM
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Just in case you didn't notice this -- I've heard that raw linseed oil is a mess, use boiled linseed oil.
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Old 12-17-2007, 01:24 AM
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If you put hot wax on cold iron it will act like dipping a candle the iron needs to be at least the melting temp of the wax a little less than 150 F.
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Old 12-17-2007, 12:40 PM
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Where do you get beeswax anyway?? I know where to get it in the cylinders, but I was wondering where you get it in the raw, lump form like you see on old colonial t.v shows. Or is that where you would get it is at colonial re-enactments?
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Old 12-17-2007, 01:36 PM
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I get beeswax from a beekeeper. I even had one give me a nasty mess of cappings and trash that boiled out to be several pounds of great smelling clean wax---he just didn't want to take the time.
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