Blacksmith and Metalworking Forum
This is a discussion on Non-Name Brand Grinding Discs, etc. within the Safety First forums, part of the General Discussions category; The least expensive, but not cheap, abrasives I could find I get from AAAbrasives online. I buy quantity to get ...
| |||||||
| Register | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| ||||
|
The least expensive, but not cheap, abrasives I could find I get from AAAbrasives online. I buy quantity to get the lowest price. Flap Discs |
| ||||
|
I always look for the specification codes on the grinding discs I purchase. If there is no code then I assume that the disc is cheap junk and not worth purchasing. I have been informed that the codes are "industry standard codes". My preference is code A24N for fast stock removal. In case there is interest here are some of the relevant codes for steel: Specification Application ------------------------------------------------------------------------ A24R......General purpose wheel for heavy working conditions. Long life, good stock removal. Used for Iron, Steel, normal ferrous metals A24N......General purpose wheel for normal working conditions. High stock removal. Used for Iron, Stainless Steel. Z-A24R....Zirconium abrasive wheel special designed for extremely tough applications. Has long life and high stock removal. Used for Iron, Stainless Steel, Forgings. A46N......Special Wheel for aluminum and nonferrous metals. Used for Aluminum and other nonferrous metals. I found this information at: www.franks-supply.com Last edited by UnicornForge; 12-01-2008 at 07:21 PM. |
| |||
|
I recently bought a hitachi 4.5 grinder, and put my old 4" dewalt disc on it, works fine. I went to put a new 4.5" delta cutting disc on it, and it is loose as heck! the 5/8" arbor (which was what the 4" disc hole was) was too small for the 7/8 disc. Checked the manual, and it says it's a 7/8!!! I don't get it. I even tried to put on the disc included with the grinder, and I can definitely feel an eccentricity when it runs, enough to make it uncomfortable to use.
__________________ The first question I ask myself when something doesn’t seem to be beautiful is why do I think it’s not beautiful. And very shortly you discover that there is no reason.” - John Cage |
| |||
|
I buy Norton or a Norton house brand that I get from Hagemeyer. Off brand will hurt you. Remember that there is no rule of law in China, and since lawsuits don't much work there either, most anything goes. Do each and every one of you have the guards on the grinders they came with? if not PUT them on. Can't find the guard? scrap it! One shop I worked at had 2, TWO! deaths from no guard 9" grinders exploding. One killed the operator, the other case the wheel half slit the throat of a guy 10' away. These happened not long before I started there. I went on the war path when I found not a single guard on a grinder. I suspect my scrapping every one I found by use of a bandsaw may be why I only lasted 3 years there. Bandsaws are great for nylon lift slings that are frayed as well |
| |||
|
Abrasives seem to be another item that can be manufactured to look just like a real one but be almost useless. I prefer Arkansas stones to sharpen my carving tools. However, I bought a man-made stone from HF and discovered that as I used it, no sharpening was taking place. I was just wearing the grit away from the stone. I tossed it and bought a $25 Norton combination India Stone. What an incredible difference! No grit is removed, just the steel from the tools. Don't waste money on cheap abrasives. ptree: both of my grinders have the original guards in place. As your post indicates, high speed grinders are weapons of fast destruction without the guards. I also use a full face shield when I grind. Not many opportunities for a blind metallurgist. |