Steel for toolmaking

[arftist]

Okay folks, Thomas is chomping at the bit to hammer some hard metal. But first, which metals are best for making what? While the answers to this question are manifold, some alloys are better than others for certain uses, in different circumstances, for different people. Here is an example. If I get hired to design and build a tool and die for the local whatever factory, after I figure out the BEST alloy for the job, I will order that stock, the heck with what it costs, my reputation as a tool and diemaker is on the line. But, what if I just want to make a drift, for enlarging a hole, that I punched in a hammer head? Can't I just grab a piece of that wicked hard stuff I got from under that car that just exploded in the driveway? Maybe, maybe not. Heres where it gets tricky(and where the disagreement will likely originate), First of all, what am I making the hammer head out of? Why does it matter? Depends on the constituents of the alloy. As Thomas pointed out, some alloys of steel are HARD even when hot, like red hot, even orange hot. So that means that whatever metal I force through that Hot Hard metal, needs some special qualities. Like toughness, and impact resistance, and ,(actual metallurgy term) Red-hardness. Red hardness is the ability of a metal to stay hard, when red hot. Back to the drift. Should I get out a tool steel catalog, determine the qualities I need, see which alloy most closely meets them, order the steel, pay the piper, pay the shipping(ouch), or should I use this piece of a jack hammer bit that is almost the right size? Since it is red hard, tough as all get out, impact resistant, and AIR HARDENING, I'm going for it. What does air hardening mean to me, right now? .(wheres Quenchcrack when you need him. Good luck in the hospital QC) ,After I take it out of the HOT chunk of steel I am working on, it air hardens again, all by itself, with no help from me. There may be 1000 ways to skin a cat, but some of them are easier or just better than others. Yes I know that early jack hammer bits may not be air hard. More to follow.

[mike-hr]

I've started making slot punches and chisels from H-13. amazing stuff. It's important to remember that air hard tooling is most likely as hard if not harder than your favorite hammer. You can put all kinds of dings in the hammer face you spent an hour dressing and polishing . Have a 'consumable' hammer that you don't care about to use on air hard punches and drifts. The consumable hammer should be tempered way soft or annealed to keep from chipping.

[ThomasPowers]

Don't forget the difference between a prototype and a one-off and something you will be using 50 times a day every day for years!

In general coil and leaf springs are a decent tool for tooling. For specific tools that will need to hold a shape when burried in hot steel high alloyed (expensive) steel may really be the best way to go.

My hardy is the broken off end of a jackhammer bit forged down to fit through the hardy hole and forged thinner towards the edge. Made it close to 20 years ago and it's still going strong---though I prefer it softer than the hammer face as it's simpler to dress when one of my students messes it up.

[evfreek]

Most jackhammer bits are not red hard. And they do not spark that way. I received a broken pavement breaker bit from a blacksmith who "qualified" it as red hard. It wasn't, but I found that out after the tool I made from it failed. The steel turned out to work fine for less demanding applications, with a water quench . This blacksmith sharpened these bits as a large part of his business, but only bought new S-7 for his own tools. He did not recycle broken bits. They were for passing out to the newbies who occasionally visited him...

[Quenchcrack]

Alloy selection is one of the really fun things that metallurgist get to do. We have the opportunity to choose from everything ever cataloged. Let somebody else try to find it and work it. My favorite is Unobtanium. Seriously, anyone can buy good alloy steel, shape it and have it professionally heat treated to get a fine tool. It is left to the smith to take a worn out, rust-pitted part that fell off of a 1962 International, forge it with style and grace, heat treat it BY HEATING IT TO NON-MAGNETIC (:-)), quenching it in dirty green water, brushing it up and waxing to a high shine, and putting it to work for about 20 years!

[6013]

I have the dirty green quench water. Know where I can find some worn out, rust-pitted 1962 International parts?

[BT]

I have a 1941 International . . .

[Quenchcrack]

Try looking under a 1962 International.

[ThomasPowers]

"Try looking under a 1962 International."

the parts will be just left of the rattlesnake and a bit below the yellowjacket nest...

[arftist]

Thank you for all the great replies. Glen asked me to provide references so others could verify what was said. Being who I am, I had to wing it, stream of mind so to speak. Naturally, now I can't find the particular book I am looking for. But I will provide some foot notes and let you guy correct what I get wrong. Starting at the top; MikeHr, h-13, possibly the most popular air hardening alloy, at least among blacksmiths. Thomas, what exactly do you mean? I somewhat agree, with Thomas on spring stock. It is great for making tools of many types. With a carbon content generaly between .6-.8%, It can be readily hardened to a sharp edge for wood cutting, or tough and strong(softer) for a wrench or pliers, plus it makes great springs. Please be aware that present day spings can be deformed cold however, not sure what has changed to allow that. Evfreak, how does red hard spark? You do realize it is a low carbon alloy right?(Metals Handbook) QC, thanks for not peeling me apart like an onion, which I know you could have done. 6013, see my previous post on s.s. quench tubs, the cleaner water was the main reason for the design. B.T., would like to compliment your truck, but the link didn't go. Finaly, todays point is, There are two different kinds of people in the world, those that believe there are two different kinds and those that don't. Different strokes for different folks and all that. Here is an example. I make a lot of bolts. Not the crossbow type. That means I make a lot of bolt headers. A piece of s-7, 1.5" diameter, from Mcmaster-Carr, lists for $175 plus shipping. My bolt headers are only 1.25" long. If I were to order that stock, to make one tool, in short order, my steel inventory would surpass my net worth. When I find that book, I can explain my reverse engineering method, of finding tool steel in the wild, where it can live, and be had for free. Thanks for listening.