Cut stock in half the easy way

[keithh999]

When twisting square stock and it comes out with that funky kink in it, rather than hit it with your regular forging hammer you might try a lead hammer...it doesnt ding up your fancy twists and is actually heavy enuf to drive tent pegs if needed. I cast my own out of old wheel weights in a soup can and punched a hole in the side for a piece of pipe. I had all the weights given to me to use in my blackpowder guns but only use pure lead for that. the hardest part was tearing the can off of the hammer after it cooled but perseverance conquered that obstacle....eventually..LOL. a note on safety about lead melting...please do it outside so that you dont get heavy metal poisoning.
Now git out there and make some noise...

[Thomas Dean]

Hey man, welcome to IFI! Good idea with the lead hammer. I had a 4x4 piece of oak that I drilled a hole in and went out and cut a sweetgum sapling for the handle. Used my old draw knife to shape the handle to fit. Have an old stump and lay the twists on the stump and use the oak hammer. Works great for me. I can think of several things to use a lead hammer on but I don't have the lead...not yet anyway.

Now, hows bout heading over to the "introduce yourself" and give us a little tidbit about yourself. Hope you enjoy the site and don't forget, we LIKE pictures!

[RegionalChaos]

When scoring cold stock with your hardy, be sure you know what the stock is. Cold coil spring can mar a hot cut pretty quick...

[Glenn]

Why mess with lead hammers when a 2x4 or piece of firewood will do almost as well. And you don't have to worry about OHSA running tests for lead and turning your property (or the rental unit) into a super-fund site.

Regional, you can use a piece of leaf spring or angle iron hardie for scoring. You are correct not to ruin a high dollar store bought (or valuable) hardie.

[Donnie]

I have one hammer dedicated for cold use. I never use a forging hammer to strike anything but hot iron. About a week ago, my 12yr. old son was helping his sister make a drive hook. I was close enough to keep an eye on them. I got tickled when I overheard him tell her "You make sure you don't hit the anvil with your hammer, cause if you hit anything but HOT IRON daddy will get your goose"........and I thought he never listens!

[Glenn]

Kids do listen, but somehow translate a hour long lecture into the boiled down version so even another kid can understand. " if you hit anything but HOT IRON daddy will get your goose" LOL


Warms your heart don't it.

[Ted T]

Wow, what a great discussion. I could not agree more about when Ralph said "It is fascinating to hear how so many smiths either learned or just do things. We are all different. nice thing about it is we can help others see it in a different manner".
Although I believe all the points of view that have been expressed here are well worth consideration for your use, Peyton and Mike have reflected back to what my beliefs are about hammer use. I am sure it is because the concepts were instilled into me when I was young and in training as a blacksmith.
So, I would like to repeat some of what they said, that I think are valuable points that I feel are worth repeating over again, Knowing that the mother of skill is repetition.

Originally Posted by primtechsmith

Two things I have learned from working with yesteryearforge is: 1. when cutting stock with a hardie use a brass hammer. and 2. NEVER hit cold metal with a forging hammer. Have a "cold" hammer hanging near your vice or close to your work area. That way you will spend more time forging and less time re-dressing your hardies and hammers! Peyton

Quote: yesteryearforge "Maybe im guilty of teaching bad habits or if not bad habits perhaps useless habits, but I use different hammers for different uses.
Such as
I use a brass hammer to cut off with and to hit the chop fuller with which pretty much eliminates any damage to either.
I have what I refer to as cold hammers that I hit punches , chisels , and cold metal with.
I use a wooden mallet for straightening spirals and twist if they get out of shape
I go to the trouble to dress the faces of my hammers very nice and want to keep them that way.
Besides I have a plethora of hammers.
Most smiths that I know have a lot of hammers , and whats the point of aquiring multiple hammers if you intend to use only one hammer for everything.
I take efforts to keep from marring up the face of my anvil and think it only reasonable to do the same with my hammers".
MIKE-T, end of Quote:
I also just use a 2" x 4" to bring a finished piece of stock back into shape so I will not mar the surface with unwanted impact marks, just like Glenn. I also kinda like the burned pine smell, if ya know what I mean?
If you do Repousse, watch out if you don’t want to have a lot of hammers around.
I trained with a man named Naham Hersom who is a master at Repousse. He has over 100 hammers; each hammer has its own job description.
Be safe!
Old Rusty Ted

[yesteryearforge]

Ted
I use wooden hammers / lead hammers and rawhide hammers to straighten or bend things that I dont want to mess up the finish or forge work on. Those and boards instead of my anvil.

Mike Tanner

[arftist]

When I use a hardy hot cut, I quench the work after I cut most of the way through, and then it just snaps off, in the pritchel hole or over the side of the anvil

[KYBOY]

When I hot cut I usaly go most of the way thru on all sides then snap it of. I cast a lot of sinkers and have a large electric smelting pot. I also have about 300 pounds of lead Ive planned on making a lead hammer for months. I just havent got around to it yet