What is the best polish/rust protector/finish

[m_brothers]

I've head of beeswax and olive oil together 1:1, but is there anything else that I could use that gives it a nice finish??? I haven't tried that yet, because I still have to get some beeswax. But, any thoughts?

[gerald]

I use several finishes: Linseed oil, Bee's wax, Johnson's paste wax, plain old parrafin, combination of B. wax, John's PW , & L. oil; but my favorite and most often used is MINWAX wood finishing wax. It goes on well and buffs to a nice deep shine.

[m_brothers]

How do you apply the coating? brush it on and then heat it up or what??

[gerald]

Most finishes of the "wax/oil" variety are brushed onto the item at a heat warm enough to cause the stuff to melt and run into crevices and pores of the metal. The temp isn't critical but can be too hot and actually burn the finish stuff away before it does any coating. If wax smokes, I wait a little while until it melts and flows well without actually smoking. Some finishes (like Linseed oil, parrafin and bee's wax) can burn to a darker finish if applied to hotter metal. This can be used to advantage if you want a darker finish but can be a disadvantage if you want the "natural" patina of the metal to show thru.

I use a natural bristle brush (a 1" paint brush, or a chip brush, or a basting brush) because sometimes I try to start brushing stuff on before it has cooled enough to be effective. When this happens, the bristles burn and I don't want to have some melted nylon gunk to clean off of the piece before I can continue. The natural bristles will just shrivel up and will brush off easily.

As you experiment with different finishes, you will develop a feel for the proper temp that gives you the desired finish.

[Frosty]

You can reduce the melting temp of waxes by combining them with turpentine. If you soften it to the consistency of a soft paste wax you can wipe it on the piece and heat in the oven for specific and repeatable results.

polyrmerizing oils like linseed or olive (to name but two) benefit from the addition of Japan drier available at paint suppliers. Baking polymerizing oils in the oven speeds the process as well and can be used to produce nice colors from golden to black as desired.

Frosty

[m_brothers]

So, if I use beeswax and olive oil on let's say a hammer head, and bake it in the oven, i could make a golden dark or a black color??

[gerald]

I might add that all the wax/oil finishes we've talked about are generally thought of as "indoor" finishes. If you have a piece that will live outside, you need to consider some sort of paint/lacquer, etc.

[m_brothers]

Okay, I'll get some black outdoor paint then to.

[the_sandy_creek_forge]

To address the original question:
"What is the best polish/rust protector/finish"
I'd say it all depends on the application. For finish on interior railings, towel bars, knick-nacks, etc. the aforementioned wax finishes seem pretty good and buff up pretty nice. For something more durable, a high quality automotive clearcoat finish is nice (that's my prefered method) and can be found in rattle can quantities for small projects.

For rust protection/finish on outdoor pieces, I'd say stainless steel would be ideal, if a little expensive. Below this, a good heavy multi-component paint system is best. The best system (IMHO) is a zinc based epoxy primer, followed by an epoxy color coat followed by a clear top coat. (This system will run you over $150 from Sherwin Williams as they only sell in gallon quantities).

Below that, I prefer Valspar's oil based enamels (available at Tractor Supply amongst other places). It is also a multi-part system, although it is somewhat limited in premixed colors. The Valspar is also available in everything from rattle cans up through gallon cans.

With any of these it is important to remember to get the steel good and clean either through powered wire brushing, or sandblasting. And also remember that the best way to apply the paint finishes is by air. I have a simple HVLP spray gun that works pretty well for general applications, although I would not want to use it on a custom auto or anything too fancy. While I'm NOT a professional painter, I'm not TOO terrible with a spray gun. I still end up with a few spots that need wet sanded and touched up, but I am getting better. There is definitely a knack to spraying paint

My two pennies worth anyways.
-Aaron @ the SCF

[easilyconfused]

Just to add a point of safety, Linseed oil soaked rags have been know to self combust! Also, don't choose anything that is not food safe for food or kitchen items.