Quantcast hardened steel, how - Page 2 - Blacksmith Forum
Blacksmith Forum

I Forge Iron

Blacksmith and Metalworking Forum

 

hardened steel, how

This is a discussion on hardened steel, how within the Alchemy and Formulas forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; well i meant com short for commission, i dont ask what my people want em for unless its gona be ...


Go Back   Blacksmith Forum > Blacksmithing > Alchemy and Formulas

Register FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Notices

Reply

 

LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #11 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 04:52 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 23
Default

well i meant com short for commission, i dont ask what my people want em for unless its gona be for food deco or blades, he said it needs to be sharp enough to cut bronze. well i dont realy have a steel suppplier cause most of my metal is old scrap and i dont use rebar so im never gona go to the bar factory.
my "teacher dosnt really know the carbon point of metal cause he never makes knifes and when he dose its just outa files

oh and by the by do any of you know bill senseny if you do could you direct me to his email or phone #?
Reply With Quote
  #12 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 06:16 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2007
Location: Exeter, UK
Posts: 468
Default

The quick-and-dirty: the carbon content of a piece of steel varies between 0.2% and 2.2% by weight. Above that it's cast iron, below that it's wrought/bloomery/puddled iron. Because even a small change in carbon content will drastically affect the properties of the steel, the carbon content is often expressed in points, one point being one hundredth of a percent, i.e. 1/10000. Thus a medium carbon steel might be 0.5% carbon by weight, AKA a 50-point steel.
Reply With Quote
  #13 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 06:49 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Central NM
Posts: 3,207
Default

Try automotive coil or leaf springs; usually easy to find them thrown out or cheap at a good mechanic's shop. They are often around 5160 steel and will harden much better than a RR spike, the "high carbon" RR spikes have at most 30 points of carbon in them and that is the boundry between low carbon and medium carbon steel. 5160 has 60 points carbon and so starts twice as high! Files are high carbon

Forge not letting it get too hot---sparking or too cold---don't hammer it if it's not glowing. Do the rough stock removal shaping. Then normalize it a couple of times and then heat to non-magnetic and quench in warm oil, take out when cool and clean it up and immediately draw temper. I would go with peacock to light blue unless he has to have it harder, then repeat the heat treat and draw to dark straw.

Note that new smiths don't start out with knives; they learn the basics first as forging the higher carbon steels is harder and trickier, forging range is much reduced, stress concentrators, decarburization, heat treat issues, all make blade making an "advanced" form of smitthing. You can always tell him "Hey I don't know how to do that yet". Nothing wrong with starting out---unless you try to do stuff you don't know enough about. Then it becomes very frustrating and not very fun.
__________________
Thomas
Reply With Quote
  #14 (permalink)  
Old 08-28-2008, 06:52 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Central NM
Posts: 3,207
Default

Actually it's not the carbon content that identifies Wrought Iron as there are WI derrived steels either natural ones from high carbon blooms or artificial ones like blister and shear steels.

What makes wrought iron wrought iron is the presence of ferrous silicate spicules in the iron matrix.

Now most wrought iron is very low in carbon; but not all!
__________________
Thomas
Reply With Quote
  #15 (permalink)  
Old 08-30-2008, 01:42 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 23
Default

well thomas any tip for hardening and tempering, i think ill do that. i dont have any torch cept a puny 10'' tall gas one.

ill try a widling knife with file steel so ill follow that oil quench thingy(is linseed ok or do i have to use some crude oil thing?)

dose any one know of a cheap cuting torch? i dont care if it dosnt cut well as long as i can use it for tempering and bending
Reply With Quote
  #16 (permalink)  
Old 09-10-2008, 11:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Rapid City, South Dakota
Posts: 617
Default

hammerhandsyd:

Please message me with your email address and I will send you about 20 or so pages in MS Word format on the properties of various junk yard steels and info on hardening and tempering various steels.
__________________
Never try to teach a pig to sing, it wastes your time and annoys the pig.

I do not suffer fools gladly.
Reply With Quote
  #17 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2008, 05:53 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Memphis,TN
Posts: 41
Default Tools

Hi Guys,

I need to make a few tools myself. Drawknife, travisher, froe, spokeshaves, and some hardys of various intended duties. I'd love to make some hammers as well but that luxury down a way on the "to do" list. Obviously the froe will need to be somewhat tougher to withstand the blows from a mallet while the shaving tools merely need to hold an edge during the duty cycle, preferably a razor sharp one. I don't mind purchasing "new" steel if it means ending up with a superior product. Any suggestions?
Reply With Quote
  #18 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2008, 05:56 PM
Member
 
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Memphis,TN
Posts: 41
Post junkyard steel

Woody, If you don't mind, cc me with that list as well: seniorasi@gmail.com
Reply With Quote
  #19 (permalink)  
Old 11-24-2008, 07:07 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: Cypress, Texas
Posts: 469
Default

Spring steel does a nice job at being tough and holding an edge. There is a BP for a drawknife, and I have made several that work very well. It also makes good froes. I have several large coil springs (1" thick turns) from a Railroad car that, while difficult to forge by hand, makes dandy tools.
Reply With Quote
  #20 (permalink)  
Old 11-25-2008, 09:29 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Location: eldorado, tx
Posts: 238
Default

i have made a draw knife out of a large bearing race, works well but wouldn't impact it with a hammer, but is a goodun, for a froe i think i'd use leaf spring, but then again i may be talking out of turn, good luck and post pixs, jimmy
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 02:46 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.4
Copyright ©2000 - 2009, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.2.0