drilling lube

[HWooldridge]

No, I'm referring to the downward feed on the drill for the revolutions being used. Every cutting tool has a proper feed/speed combination. Too much or too little of either can overheat the cutting edges and/or simply break the tool.

One of the reasons people break drill bits in manual drill presses is that there is enough slop in the quill to allow a bit to jump and pull itself forward, especially at the end of a cut. This also happens when people don't clamp the work and just hold it on top of the table (I know, everybody does it - and I'm probably one of the worst offenders around). A machine that has power feed will go through at the same rate and is less likely to break drills, all else being equal.

[habu68]

From Modern Blacksmithing 1904


DRILLING IRON
Every smith knows how to drill, sometimes it gives even an old smith trouble. The drill must be true, the center to be right, if one side of the drill is wider than the other or the drill not in proper shape the hole will not be true. For centuries oil has been used for drilling and millions of dollars have been spent in vain. It is a wonder how people will learn to use the wrong thing. I don't think that I have ever met a man yet who did not know that oil was used in drilling. In drilling hard steel, turpentine or kerosene is used as oil will then prevent cutting entirely. Nothing is better than water, but turpentine or kerosene is not as bad as oil; if you think water is too cheap use turperitine or kerosene. I had occasion once to do a little work for a man eighty years old, and when I drilled a hole, used water. The old man asked if water was as good as oil, and when informed that it was better, said: "I used to be quite a blacksmith myself, I am now eighty years old, too old to do anything, but I am not too old to learn." it ought to suggest itself to every smith that while oil is used in boxes to prevent cutting, it will also prevent cutting in drilling.
HOW TO DRILL CHILLED IRON
First prepare a drill which is thicker at the point than usual, and oval in form, then harden it as follows: heat to a low cherry red heat and cool in the following hardening compound: two quarts soft water, one-half ounce sal-ammoniac, salt, three ounces. Don't draw the temper, for if you have the right heat you will get the right temper. Now drill and use water, not oil. Feed carefully but so the drill will cut right along. If you have no chance to get the compound, harden in water but draw no temper, let it be as hard as it will.

good book and it is free

[NateDJ]

Will give it a try next time I fire up the press. I have a pump out of an old shampooer that I have thought about making into a coolant pump but hated the thought of oil running all over my shop, with water... I get that everywhere just stomping around in my slack tub.

[SGropp]

I use a mist cooler [ Kool Mist brand from MSC or Enco ] It runs on the shop compressed air. A very fine spray is all that's needed. The coolant is heavily diluted with water so a little goes a long way. No oily mess to cause welding or finishing problems later on.

[Ironmanaz]

Hi guys! This is my first post; been a member for a few months.The software asked me to post. No net at the ranch, so we get online at the lib. in town. I am surprised no one has mentioned the old standard-- bacon grease (or lard). Works great on any steel drilling, or turning, or shaping. Can be enhanced with graphite dust & turpentine. I add some light cutting oil to deter the shop rats! Cheers, Eric in AZ[