Blacksmith and Metalworking Forum
This is a discussion on brine within the Alchemy and Formulas forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; You hear a lot of talk about using brine for quinching but seldom anyone can tell you how to make ...
| |||||||
| Register | FAQ | Calendar | Search | Today's Posts | Mark Forums Read |
| |||
|
The "traditional" method calls for adding salt until it's strong enough to float an egg---probably a fresh laid one and not one that's been drying in the refrigerator for a while... Thomas
__________________ Thomas |
| ||||
|
I guess it depends on what you are quenching. I fooled around some with 1050 for tomahawks. JPH, he know his stuff. He told me to use a saturated (will no longer dissolve anymore salt) solution, with a couple squirts of dish soap to lessen the surface tension. I wrote it down for future reference, but ended up remedying the problem by quenching warm water for three seconds, then going to warm oil (quench oil should always be warmed to about 130 deg F for quenching) for the rest.
|
| ||||
|
I want to add something else about the warmed oil quench. People ask me all the time how warmed oil is a faster quench than cool, room temp oil. It has to do with the thickness or the viscosity of the quenchant. The thicker the quenchant is, the slower it quenches the piece. What happens when you heat something?....The parts that make it up begin to move faster. When the oil is warmed up, the little parts that make it up begin to move faster, this makes it thinner and more viscous which makes it a faster quench. You can actually see the difference of the thickness of the oil with your own eye. Try this and see. Put a stirrer in room temp oil....lets say 70 deg. F. Lift the stirrer out, and watch the oil drip. Take note of how thick or thin it is. Then, do the same thing with oil that has been heated to 130 deg. F. Notice how much faster it runs off of the stirrer and how much thinner it is. Now, back to the topic! |
| ||||
|
Table salt, I believe the only difference between table salt and rock salt (and somebody please correct me if i am wrong...i am remembering this from highschool) is the addition of Iodine. If you use non-iodized table salt (it's usually right next to the Iodized stuff at the market) it should be the same as rock salt. Apprenticeman: If you go by the above proportions it would be 4.5 gallons of water and 1/2 gallon of salt for a 10% solution or 4.75 gallons of water and 1 quart of salt for a 5% solution. I've personally always done like Tyler and dissolved salt until it was fully saturated... -Aaron @ the SCF 2 cups=1 pint 2 pints=1 quart 4 quarts= 1 gallon |
| ||||
|
Adding salt to water, up to the saturation point, will not change its volume; only it's sp/gravity. It should not be nessary to reduce the volume of the water to get the salt to "fit". you can put almost a 1/4 cup of sugar in a full cup of water.
|
| ||||
|
Many, Many years ago an old timer who was known for his hardening and tempering ability, told me that difference between water and brine was the size of the bubbles formed from the steam the hot piece makes when immersed in the solution. Some of the tool makers I know use a 1/4 inch of vegetable oil floating on top of the brine to take the shock off the item. It also has a tendency to remove the water from the item as it comes out of the quench.
__________________ Irnsrgn Knowledge must be shared or it lies dead in the mind. The Blacksmith must use Hammer and Flame to force the iron down the path of his own choosing. I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect. |
| ||||
| Quote:
__________________ Founder and first member of the SBA, The Space Blacksmith's Association! |