Wood chisel

[ApprenticeMan]

I have this pexto wood chisel, the tip needs to be reworked, as it now has a double bevel instead of the single. Also the tip on the corners was overheated and the colors ran. Should I re heat treat and re shape the whole thing? Or just gind slowly back until the back is flat and then re do the whole edge without running the colors? Thank you.

[jimmy seale]

you might just try to clean it up-then if it didn't work then reforge h/t it-but not knowing the type steel it it any guess would be a shot in the dark-bath tub guess on h't,good luck, jimmy

[jayco]

APP-Man-----If the chisel was only overheated a little on the corners,it may not have lost that much hardness. I'd probably try reshaping/sharpening first before attempting a full heat-treat. You can always do that later if the edge is too soft.

I was taught in highschool carpentry class to always use a bench grinder with a tool rest to get a consistent bevel on a wood chisel.

The chisel must be kept cool as possible during the grinding process.We were told to keep a cup of water nearby, and dip the point even before touching it to the grinder.

Just soon as the edge you are grinding becomes dry,dip again.
Usually no more than2 to3 seconds between dips.

Final honing is done on a whetstone to give a fine edge and remove that little wire edge that will most likely form after grinding.

This is just the old way shown in lots of woodworking how-to books.....but it works!

James

[ApprenticeMan]

I understand, and the guy uses a water cooled wet stone. but this one has the usually flat side that was improperly ground so now the edge comes together like a knife blade instead of a chisel. It would only need about 1/4 of an inch ground off the front completely, then have the edge bevel properly ground in on the one side again.

[jayco]

I didn't realize till I read your post again that the wood chisel had been sharpened like a cold chisel! Might still save it though, with some really patient grinding. I hope it hasn't been softened by overheating!
good Luck


James

[Dr Dean]

Hmmm not good. FWIW I never use power tools to sharpen my wood chisels and gasket scrapers. Grab a file and use that to get the first stage of sharpening then go to sandpaper glued to a piece of 1/4" glass. I usually start with 180 then go to 320 then 600 grit. If I really want it scary sharp I finish with 1200 grit.
Now for the problem at hand. Rather than risk destroying the heat treating I'd probably err to the side of caution. Start with flattening the back 80 or 60 grit on the glass and taper the back down to take off the bevel on the back or at least most of it then work on the face and go through the grits to 600 grit.
Sam can you post a profile pic? I might have a better idea after seeing what you're up agianst.

[Dodge]

Just a thought. Cut chisel off at the back of the bad bevel, leaving a nice thick edge. thats how far back you need to grind anyway. Then heat treat and then grind/file/scrape/hone (what ever it takes ) for a proper bevel.