Quantcast resurfacing an anvil - Blacksmith Forum
Blacksmith Forum

I Forge Iron

Blacksmith and Metalworking Forum

 

resurfacing an anvil

This is a discussion on resurfacing an anvil within the Problem Solving forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; I picked up a 55# anvil that was abused badly. I was thinking about resurfacing so that my younger sons ...


Go Back   Blacksmith Forum > Blacksmithing > Problem Solving

Register FAQ Calendar Search Today's Posts Mark Forums Read

Notices

Reply

 

LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2006, 01:38 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Washington State
Posts: 25
Default resurfacing an anvil

I picked up a 55# anvil that was abused badly. I was thinking about resurfacing so that my younger sons could use it. The thought was to have a piece of AR500 3/8" thick lazer cut with the appropriate holes and then either weld it to the top or sweat in on or even braze it on. What is your guys opinion? For those that do not know what AR steel is; it is an abrasion resistant plate that stands up to impact extremely well. I use it on targets. It will take a .308 round at 100 yrds with out even so much as putting a dent into it.
Reply With Quote
  #2 (permalink)  
Old 08-03-2006, 07:47 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Posts: 1,297
Default

It can be done but is a bit of work - I think I wrote a note here a while back on how I refaced a couple of anvils. The AR500 will probably work but you may draw some of the hardness when you weld it. It would be advisable to weld and let the plate cool so the whole thing stays below 300-400 degrees. I welded mine from the center out to the edge so I set the plate on 3/8 round rod that went around the hardy and pritchel and down the middle of the face. The material around the holes prevents weld metal from enterign and causing interference later. This also allows getting an electrode into the root and welding more or less homogenously all the way across so there are no dead spots.

We use AR500 for armor on architectural elements such as doors and window frames - it is tough stuff and pretty hard, I think around 50 Rc.
Reply With Quote
  #3 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2006, 12:31 AM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Berkeley Springs ,WV
Posts: 130
Default

I rarely recommend any repairs other than a belt sander. Remember, you only need a smooth flat spot the size of the hammer you are using. Most old anvils have a sway back and chipped edges. Several of mine do and I don't seem to find a problem with them.

Welding a new face on is tricky at best. Brazed on will be very soft and I wouldn't try it. The idea of an anvil is to have a contiguous piece of metal that has a hard face and softer body that will take the pounding. Nothing short of original will work in my mind, repairs are somehow almost always less than original.

Use the abused one.

HW- please take no offense. Your method seems quite good and would, if I were to repair one, be a method of choice for me.

Your mileage may vary.
__________________
Spare Time? Is that like day off? I've heard of those...never had one of my own.

Mark Schwenk- artist/blacksmith at Frog Valley Forge

http://www.frogvalleyforge.com
Reply With Quote
  #4 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2006, 06:21 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: New Braunfels, Texas
Posts: 1,297
Default

Mark,

None taken - using the abused one is less work and I would seldom recommend a full reface unless someone really knows what they are doing due to the potential for failure. Quite often, welding with build-up rods is better, although I don't care for that method in most cases. However, "klilckitat" asked about refacing so I answered.

Another option if someone has a few friends to help and a BIG forge would be to redress the face without any buildup. Heat it to yellow, redress with sledges and a big flatter, drift hardy and pritchel with pre-made punches, then reharden the face in the same heat. Again, not for everyone but entirely feasible. A 55# anvil is not so big that a redress could not be done in a single day. I think Bruce W has done this - maybe he'll chime in.
Reply With Quote
  #5 (permalink)  
Old 08-04-2006, 06:49 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Location: Central NM
Posts: 3,141
Default

Ahh 55# sends warning bells---could it be one of the imported cast iron anvils?

If so welding or trying to reforge will be *not* be possible. you might try "sweat brazing" the tougher face on.

Thomas
__________________
Thomas
Reply With Quote
  #6 (permalink)  
Old 08-06-2006, 08:04 PM
Senior Member
 
Join Date: Mar 2005
Location: hillswick shetland isles uk
Posts: 264
Default re forging anvils

to re forge a anvil to take sway out and to get the edges back into shape ,isnt as big a job as you might think, most of the time is spent sitting around telling stories ,and as you need 3-4 handy lads with the hammers the stories bigger and less belivable as the job soaks ,make a big deep fire in the yard on the floor ,we called them floor fires, get it near to welding heat ,hook the hardy hole and drag it out of the fire and set about it with men and if you have your wits about you get the flatter and let the others use the hammers, then use a 2 ins water pump , years back old anvils were at scrap price ,so we had nothing to lose if we hashed it up ,though we allways got away with it ,and if you think the small anvil is cast iron you will soon find out i nearly forgot when you get it back onto the fire to take the quenching heat throw all the old casenit casehardening powder you have into the fire ,we used a lot for the brick yards so there was always plenty of bashed up tins around,
__________________
spelling and grammer inforcer

Last edited by bruce wilcock; 08-06-2006 at 08:14 PM.
Reply With Quote
  #7 (permalink)  
Old 08-07-2006, 12:36 PM
Junior Member
 
Join Date: Jul 2006
Location: Washington State
Posts: 25
Default

Thanks guys for your replies. Just a little more information. The anvil is quite old and is steel, not cast iron. The edges have been severely chipped away. The top does not show that much sway to it as the edges took most of the abuse. As for the welding on of a plate; well guys before my injuries I was a Millwright fabricator. I mostly built saw mill equipment and installed it. The idea I had was to have the AR plate cut with a lazer and welding the perimeter, but then I got to thinking about what you guys were saying about dead spaces. So then I got to thinking I would plug weld the pizz out of it. Now after reading everything I think that it will be best just to leave it and let the boys use it until they get better and then maybe find another anvil in better shape. I might even reshape the top for doing tin work with it. I do appriciate all the help though and some day I might even try to build a floor fire and redo it. that actualloy sounds like a fun challange.
Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On
Forum Jump


All times are GMT -4. The time now is 01:10 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.7.3
Copyright ©2000 - 2008, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
SEO by vBSEO 3.2.0