quoting a circular staircase

[Daryl]

You still aren't clear as to the layout of the staircase. Whatever the case, do the math, make certain the math is correct, take into account everything, make the jigs for the treads perfect as to the math (this is critical), do not deviate from the the math because while something might look awry while it is going together - it will be right when it is done (it will look screwy if you 'make adjustments' to it while it is half done. Anything else?

[tbrforge]

the math is not an issue, I work every project out on AutoCad. One of my concerns is the wrapping of the handrail. Seems as though the handrail is intergral with the ballusters and tread to give the treads the support needed on the outside of the radius. Been searching everysite I can and looking at pictures. No staircases around here to observe. I have never been accused of underengineering, but this sure isn't the porject to make assumptions on eh?

[tbrforge]

layout wise, I have an appointement with Inspectors on Monday to talk code. Looks to me Like I need a rise of 9" giving me 12 steps. only going from ground floor up 10' I am going with 30 degree coverage on the outside of the tread. 1" sq tubing (weight concerns) 14ga wall for ballusters 1-1/2 round for handrail.

[frogvalley]

TBR- You can email me off list for any questions at all about running a blacksmith/welding business. Or for that matter you can start an thread with some questions and let all of us business owners chime in.

The math and design sounds good, although the 1.5 inch rail seems a bit thick. Maybe 1 inch or 1.125. Thats just my opinion I don't see anything wrong with thicker.

I am guessing you'll adjust for the .333 difference in the math on number of risers? 10ft=120in divided by 9" rise = 13.3333333333 and so on. -1 gives you 12.33 steps. .33 left over. Divide this up to add to the 9" to get actual rise.

Most important part to remember is that the center post is not the only support. One of the balusters must "hang" down and support the next step thus creating a stepped support for the outer edge of each step, both supporting by hanging a contiguous section and then at the bottom step this attaches to base or floor giving support.

Fully cantilevered suspension type stairs can be troublesome.

Oh and I am in such northern WV that I have to buy Pennsylvania coal.

Annealing very slowly will help with the glass , although you cannot eliminate the cracking totally. Unless you cheat like I do and have the glass department make inserts to fit my openings then epoxy or use welded tabs to hold it in place.

I could be wrong , but I doubt it. LOL

[ThomasPowers]

I worked in a custom wood shop once where my boss told the story of making a handrail for a circular stair and having to screw the helix through the front door to get it inside to the stairway.

Just a cautionary note....

[tbrforge]

I plan on fabricating the handrail on site, weld and bend,weld and bend...
First shop I had, I built "the boat in the basement" a truck rack out of tubular stainless. ended up removing the door jam and still had to squeeze the rack through.