A Quick Question on Stick Welders

[Don A]

I finally bought myself a new Lincoln 225AC, and I have been really enjoying getting to know it.

I am currently building a new forge; all scrap steel with a Centaur fire-pot.

Just one quick question for you experienced buzz-boxers:

You've got a pile of mild steel between 1/8 and 1/4". You have ground it clean at all the joints. You can manipulate the work so that there is no overhead welding involved.

If you could pick one type rod, which would it be?

Thanks,
Don

[jimmy seale]

6011-may want to run 6010-it seams to deal with a little higher carbon content-but for good weld i recommend 7018 w/ mild stringer

[JWBIRONWORKS]

Since this is not the only project you will ever do I would pick a good all around rod that will be easy for you to use and perform well in all positions. I personally prefer 6011 for all around work. If I only had one rod in the shop it would be 6011. Good penetration and fast freeze. Not as pretty as 6013 but I feel you get a better weld. If pretty matters and since your welding flat then go with 6013.

Everyone has thier own preference and this is mine. Good luck and congrats on the welder

JWB

[Rich Hale]

7014 for me, it will make you look like an experinced welder.

[JWBIRONWORKS]

Quick note 6010 is a DC rod and won't work well with your new 225AC. If you go with 7018 don't buy 50#. If you don't have an oven to keep it in it will draw moisture and cause problems.

JWB

[dimag]

I use 7014,mostly,6011 also.They make a 7018 for AC,I have tried it and it is OK.It doesn't hurt to have an oven for welding rod in general[my shop ain't heated].A piece of 6" pipe long enough to hold the rod with a door on one end and a plate with a lite fixture on the other and a 40 watt bulb.You can build it with what ever rod you decide to use.

[Ten Hammers]

I will chime in on the 7014 rod. Runs good for me. I do use 7018 DC for repairs on shafting and cogs ( weldahubs etc ). Otherwise MIG and acetelyne get used for most production work. BTW Dimag, keen idea on the rod oven. A 100 watt bulb will also keep your battery warm in the wintertime but never thought of the pipe and bulb for the rod.

[Ted T]

My vote with the given scenario.
1st choice = 7014 2nd choice = 7018

[Glenn]

Blueprint BP0052 has some material on welding rod and settings.

From Lincoln Electric

E6010
DC only and designed for putting the root bead on the inside of a piece of pipe, this is the most penetrating arc of all. It is tops to dig through rust, oil, paint or dirt. It is an all-position electrode that beginning welders usually find extremely difficult, but is loved by pipeline welders world-wide. Lincoln 5P+ sets the standard in this category.

E6011
This electrode is used for all-position AC welding or for welding on rusty, dirty, less-than-new metal. It has a deep, penetrating arc and is often the first choice for repair or maintenance work when DC is unavailable. The most common Lincoln product is Fleetweld® 180 for hobby and novice users. Industrial users typically prefer Fleetweld 35.

E6013
This all-position, AC electrode is used for welding clean, new sheet metal. Its soft arc has minimal spatter, moderate penetration and an easy-to-clean slag. Lincoln Fleetweld® 37 is most common of this type.

E7018
A low-hydrogen, usually DC, all-position electrode used when quality is an issue or for hard-to-weld metals. It has the capability of producing more uniform weld metal, which has better impact properties at temperatures below zero. The Lincoln products are typically Jetweld® LH-78 or our new Excalibur® 7018.

Storing Low Hydrogen Stick Electrodes
Low hydrogen stick electrodes must be dry to perform properly. Unopened Lincoln hermetically sealed containers provide excellent protection in good storage conditions. Opened cans should be stored in a cabinet at 250 to 300°F (120 to 150°C).


Electrodes exposed to air for less than one week; no direct contact with water. Final Re-drying Temperature 650°F to 750°F (340 to 400°C)

[Dr Dean]

I use alot of 6011 and would recommend for a beginner. 7018 and 6010 are best left for use with DC reverse polarity(DCEN). You can get 7018AC for use with a buzz box but FWIW save your money. 7014 is also a good rod for flat welds but can throw you for a loop in other positions untill you get used to it. I bought a Miller CST-250 a few weeks ago, it's a inverter DC machine that just loves the 7018 but before that I had a love/hate thing going with 7018.
Before you start building your forge round up a bunch of expendable scrap and practice, practice, practice. Burn a minimumm of 10lbs rod to get the hang of it.
I also go to shopfloortalk.com there's a great bunch of folks over there and it's geared toward fabrication.
PS sign on and check out the thread Biker Banking in off topic!