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Gate problem...

This is a discussion on Gate problem... within the Problem Solving forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; hello every one. at this time i have not for me a smal problem.. since i have never done annything ...


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Old 11-24-2006, 08:22 PM
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Exclamation Gate problem...

hello every one. at this time i have not for me a smal problem.. since i have never done annything like this i must aks befor.If i have a gate 1.5meters long *2 ( a dubbel gate) and wannt to attach the fence post ( right word??) in the ground?? anny proposal??
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Swe_karl
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:00 PM
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karl,i would completely assemble the double gate and posts i asume they hinge on the posts,have them in position level and plumb,braced up with 2by4s. with the posts centered in dug holes say12inches across and 24 inches deep,coat any metal below grade with tar and fill with concrete.remove wooden supports after 48 hours.
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Old 11-24-2006, 09:05 PM
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SWE_karl
You need to calculate the weight of each gate and add the weight of one or two children swinging on the gate and then make sure that the post or whatever is supporting the gate is substantial enough to not allow the gate to sag
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Old 11-24-2006, 11:37 PM
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Karl: It is best to go look at GOOD existing gates, especially heavy ones, to see how they are hung. If possible, support the bottom of the gate directly on a pivot to the ground, and hang the top of the gate from the post. In other words, the post doesn't support the weight; it just holds it straight. To do that, you put a pin on the bottom that goes in steel hole in a plate flush with the pavement.

Also, if possible, hang the top post hinge from steel, not just an anchor into the post. Sometimes you can put a plate on the backside of the post and pin completely through the post.

Here is a picture of a smaller gate at the Washington National Cathedral. It is indoors, but it shows very clearly the optimal support for a gate of the dimensions you are dealing with.

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/da...02052_crop.jpg

Here is a picture of the bottom pivot pin going into a socket imbedded in the floor:

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/da...2049_small.jpg

And here is a picture of the hinge which keeps the gate upright:

http://www.iforgeiron.com/gallery/da...2048_small.jpg
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Old 11-25-2006, 09:17 AM
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Karl: It occurred to me that you didn't say how tall the gate is. For instance, if you are talking about a short, light garden gate, you can get away with a 6" treated post in concrete in the ground. (I'd go down at least 2 feet.) What is the approximate weight of each side of the gate? There are all sorts of solutions, depending on the use of the gate, the surrounding fencing, buildings, materials at hand... ? Can you tell us more about gate and its environment?
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Old 11-25-2006, 12:29 PM
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hi every one and thank´s for the replyes. the gate is 1.4 high and weight aprox 150kg.
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Old 11-25-2006, 02:13 PM
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Karl:

You need to know the frost depth to properly bury the posts. Find out from builders in the area.

If your ground freezes in winter and the posts aren't set deep enough the freeze thaw will jack them out and you'll never keep the gates straight. Foundations and bearing posts like gate posts around here have to be a minimum 42" deep, 48" being prefered.

Frosty
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Old 11-26-2006, 08:15 AM
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Frosty beat me to it and thats ok too. I have built a couple of archways ( one for cemetery and one for church ). Cemetery arch footings were dug with a rented digger and the church footings were dug by hand. All the previous suggestions included + this:

Go below frost with the footing. I have made footing forms but you should be able to buy sonotube ( cardboard tubing for this purpose ).

Crown the top of the footing so water will run off. Gravel in the bottom of the hole to allow for drainage. I have some pictures somewhere.

It has been suggested to look at exsisting gates for ideas. This is good advice.
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