Forging with Pipe

[irnsrgn]

LOL, standard operating procedure is mud, woodene plug, wet paper or cloth stuck in the handle end to prevent the chimney effect.

When I demoed for the public, I just used to drive that end into the ground and twist to seperate the plug so it would stay in. Mud does have a tendency to dry out and eeither fall out, slip down to the working area or just disintigrate tho.

[Walking Dog]

Hello Again,

I've attached a picture of some of the pipe bells that led me to open this thread. They are 3-inch schedule 10, 2-inch schedule 40, and 1 1/4-inch schedule 40.

Forging pipe has been a learning experience. I've been using the guillotine tool, the anvil, and a large 90-degree V-block. The guillotine tool draws the metal, so when I tried to take the 3-inch schedule 10 down to 1/2 inch I.D., it got too thin and tore. I had much better luck with the hammer and V-block. For the smaller pipe, the anvil step works. I can also take the pipe down freehand on the anvil, but I think the V-block gives a bit better control to keep it moving evenly without collapsing. Yes, it seems to behave better at a red (not orange) heat, but if I do too much when it's cold, it splits the seam.

With regard to the chimney effect, I've been cutting the pipe to length first and then welding a light porter bar on to one end. This avoids taking a heavy length of pipe in and out of the fire. The chimney doesn't burn my hand either, but I still need to block the end when it drafts coal smoke out from under the hood.

Parkinson's book refers to using pipe and tubing, but no special info on the methods to work it.

Again, thanks for all the suggestions. I've got a 3-inch schedule-40 in progress which is down to 1/2-inch I.D. with little loss of wall thickness. I'm taking pictures as I go so perphaps I be able to post again when it's done.

Walking Dog

[pete46]

Please Do A Bp On This!
I'll Have The Ladies Scream'n Like Elvis!

[philip in china]

I want to make some bells for a friend of mine here who is a percussionist. So please let's have some pics of one in progress.

[Don A]

I second the request for a BP.

Those look really nice.

[steveh]

how do you attach the clapper ?

[Walking Dog]

The sketch will show what I've been doing for the clapper and stem. The pipe-bell is drawn down (to about 1/2-inch ID for a 3-inch pipe). Round stock is fullered and drawn down to fit inside the neck on the pipe (in this case, 3/4-inch round stock). The end of the stem is gently flattened and punched (about 3/16 in this case). I clean up the hole with a tiny file. The clapper is drawn out of round stock as illustrated. Sometimes I upset the clapper end to give it more mass. Draw down the attachment end to a fine point, file out any rough places, and hang it on the stem with a very loose swinging joint. Sometimes I put the clapper on before the stem goes into the bell; sometimes after.

Stick weld bell to the stem in the gap provided, then go to the forge and draw out the welded joint and the rest of the stem as desired. Hopefully, the signs of the weld disappear in the process.

[pete46]

Walk'n Dog , Thank you very much! i am going to try and add the bells to my bottle trees . Musical and pretty, oh yea the ladies will sing!

[fat pete]

hey pete let me see your bottle trees

[steveh]

thanks for the info on the clapper,those bells are very nice.