Forging with Pipe

[Walking Dog]

Hello, I've got an assortment of black pipe up to 3-inch and I've been practicing making bells from it. The biggest so far is from the 3-inch schedule 10 pipe. I've made a large swing arm guillotine tool and acquired a large V-block, and I think I'm beginning to get a feel for the process, but I would like to find out what I might be missing.

Are there any books that discuss the subject of "pipe forging" that anyone can refer me to?

I've heard somewhere that my V-block should be at a 117 degree angle. (What I've got is 90 degrees.) Is there any basis for this, or is it just a rumor?

[Thomas Dean]

Not sure about any books on the subject although I'm sure there are some. The 117 degree V block will allow the larger pipe to 'set in' deeper in the V block. Depending on the size of pipe and V block you could get unwanted markings on the sides of your pipe from the tighter V block. Got Pictures?

[primtechsmith]

You may want to ask a guy by the name of Ralph Sproul...He is over at forgemagic a lot and he has forged a lot of pipe and has a lot of fixtures he uses under his power hammers to do the job.

Peyton

[Mills]

My vee block is a little more than that, I think a little heavier angle to the 117 mark will be a good choice. I do like the wider better than a 90.

[pete46]

The Artist Blacksmith By Peter Parkinson Has A Section On Pipe & Tubing .
IT'S NOT EVEN A WHOLE CHAPTER BUT IT WAS VERY EDUCATIONAL.

[Walking Dog]

Thank you all for the helpful replies. I've ordered Peter Parkinson's book by ILL. I've done quite a bit of searching on the Forgemagic site, and I'm finding bits of information, but no dissertation on the subject. There is a passing reference there to making your V-block 117 degrees, but why that number and not just "120" or more than a right angle? Hopefully, this isn't getting too theoretical, but I am curious.

I'll be getting some pictures taken soon to post.

[irnsrgn]

I have made lots of bells out of pipe and have forged other things out of pipe, never used a V block yet, what do you do with it.

Pipe is fickle if you get it to a yellow heat when fullering it will just mush sideways when you hit it, work it at just above a bright red just into the orange stage and it will compress or depress without deforming like at a yellow.

The only time you work a bell at a yellow is when you flare the bottom end on the horn of the Anvil so that the pipe and seam don't split.

I just slip the yellow heated very end over the Horn of the Anvil and wiggle it around while pushing on the other end to start the flare, then on the second heat, position on the horn at an angle and tap the unheated side lightly to increase the flare to what I want. Then put the hot flare on a flat surface and hit the cold up end to make a nice straight edge.

If you have a second anvil tip it over on its heel and base on the floor to do the wiggling around to start the flare, you can even hit the cold end with a hammer to hasten the flaring, just be careful and don't work it to cold or it will split especially at the seam.

[steveh]

i like to make snail shells out of 1in pipe.forge it down,then roll it up.

[Awalker]

I would be very interested to see some pictures of both of your pipe bells. I have made some cylinder bells in the past but quit doing them when they got to be so ubiquitous.

[philip in china]

This is an old thread but I just remembered one thing. You probably already know it. When working with pipe either forging or quenching, you can get a cruel amount of heat up the middle of the pipe which can spoil the rest of your day if it contacts your skin!