Firepot mounting-Flush or ?

[keykeeper]

A while back, I picked up a champion 400 whirlwind blast firepot. I recently acquired an original clinker breaker/airtube assembly for same. Last night, I got my table set up, and I am preparing to cut my hole in it for mounting.

Here's a pic:
I have seen numerous firepots like this, and some people mount them flush and put a set of angle iron "stoppers" to keep the coal in where the end access "cuts" are. Some people mount them sitting on the "cuts" for access to the heart of the fire for long pieces.

So, my question is: Which way should I mount this? Flush with stoppers under the top of the table or allow the "cuts" in the firepot to sit atop the table and use some firebrick around the pot to bring the table up level with the rest of the flange?

And please give me the "why?" for your reasoning. I don't wanna have to rework this later, and want to make the best decision now before I mount it.

Thanks.

-aaron c.

[Justin Caradoc]

personaly I would bend the sheet metal for the table to follow the cutouts in the fire pot. if that wasa not able to be done I would put the cutouts flush and build up the table around the rest of the pot. just my 2 cents.

[ThomasPowers]

I have an original champion "railroad forge", *big* cast iron thing. The firepot is mounted raised and the cast iron sides have indents to match. The floor was filled as you preferred---I last used creek clay.

As it's a substantial forge I think this was done to provide less thermal shock to the cast iron body of the forge---the previous owner burnt a piece of RR Rail in two in it with out damaging the body of the forge though the firepot got a bit crispy.

[Don A]

I have mine (a Centaur) mounted where the "cuts" are flush with the table.

I cut the hole to the exact length, but cut the width where the edges would overlap.

Then I welded a couple strips of thick flat stock to the sides of the cut-out to pull the "cuts" exactly even with the table (really big shims).

This was probably over-kill, but the long stock passed cleanly across the firepot.

Don

[keykeeper]

My table is a solid piece of plate, approx. 1/8-3/32" thickness. I'm thinking maybe about cutting a strip on each side out, then fabbing up a trough to match the "cuts" in the firepot. These would be welded in and become part of the table. The table was once a base plate for a hydraulic tank from an elevator. It has a lip rolled up about 4-5" all the way around. I'm using it upside down, so I have a nice flat surface. That may change, though. Seems like so far everyone favors access using the "cuts" in the firepot.

Keep the ideas and commentary coming. Thanks.

[Glenn]

Where is the sweet spot in the fire located?
Install it so the steel lays flat on the table and spans the sweet spot.

[HWooldridge]

All of my firepots are sitting on the lower set of lips so the gap on the sides is visible and then are clayed so the uppermost set of lips is flush with that lining. The clay also gently slopes downward so it is flush with the lower lips. That way, the fuel is always packed into the sides of the fire. Very little fuel is in front or behind - so a trough is created to provide 9-10 inches of heat.

[keykeeper]

Originally Posted by Glenn

Where is the sweet spot in the fire located?
Install it so the steel lays flat on the table and spans the sweet spot.

Well, good advice, if I knew where the sweet spot is located. But, being I've never used this firepot yet, I will have to see. Just thought I would hear from folks that use these type, and their preference. Then, mount accordingly, so I don't have to rework it later. Less time fixing equipment=more time forging.

[Glenn]

Why not put the fire pot into a 55 Forge and play with it until you find how the fire works and where the sweet spot is located.

The 55 Forge is more than just a name, it is a test platform, among other things. (grin)

[blksmth]

The sweet spot probably has more to do with the power of the blower than the firepot.