chimmney set ups.

[Dave M]

Ok so here I go picking every ones brains again. I have pretty much finished building my new shop and now it is time to give my forges a permanent home. I have both propane and coal forges + welders, torches and a plasma cutter. Here is my plan let me know if this will work or if it is aready working for you. So for the coal forge I am thinking standard stove pipe (8" or 10" ) coming off the top of the side draft hood, run up the out side wall to the right height to give me proper draft. Now for the propane forge and welders I am thinking a sheet metal hood with with fan ducted outside but I am not sure if I need to run a chimney all of the way up the out side. I think I have to because the shop has a full second floor. Now here is were it gets ugly I need to heat my shop, if money was free I would use a direct vent propane heater but it looks like I will be using a wood stove for now. So it seems I would have 3 chimneys run up the out side of one wall, using the other walls is not an option. I also have to check the building code but I don't think that chimenys can be shared and in the winter there is a chance I would be using all 3 at the same time. Please tell me I am over thinking this. Maybe 1 chimeny for wood stove and use a hood that I could roll the other stuff under and or hook up to with its own chimeny. That would give me only 2 chimenys.

[james gonzalez]

I know a blacksmith/sculptor who uses the same stovepipe chimney for his coal forge and wood stove.
I am no expert, but I do know you should have the chimney terminate at least 4 feet above the roof.
If I recall correctly the Anvilfire website has some good info on forge chimney requirements as does Beautiful Iron.
peace

[Glenn]

James
Go to the top of the forum page and click on user cp
Click on edit profile
Go to the bottom of the page, enter your location and save.

We would like to know where in the world your located.

[Glenn]

BP0460 Anatomy of a Forge Flue

[Covforge]

I don't know if it's doable, The old houses had multible flues in the same chimney. it would be larger but only 1 stack.
Travis

[Ice Czar]

Originally Posted by Dave M

over thinking this

over thinking this would be hooking all three to a wet scrubber to both get rid of all particulate matter and transfer a large portion of the heat to water (then dropping a heat exchanger in to transfer that to clean water and using it for space heating or hot showers


as far as code....permit? I was just trying to do the right thing
odds are the energy invested in forcing the air would be repaid in the heat scavenged


Venturi scrubber
basic sheetmetal work and some plumbing

Injector

Cyclonic separation

[R Funk]

Ice Czar,

Thanks for bringing up the technology of Scrubbers and Cyclonic
air cleaning systems!

Please remember for these systems to work effectively, they must fairly highly engineered. The air flow veleocitys must be very high and pressures high. The air velocity and pressures are typically 10- 30 times higher than what is present in a home heating system.

Power consumption will be high due to the high velocities and presssures of the systems.

I would save these systems for applications where government and neighbor relations require such an application. Remember that if these are required by the goverment detailed designs and stack tests may be required at a great cost, more than cost of a fine German automobile.

[Ice Czar]

when you have to scale them up to industrial size Id agree, and going at it blind and on faith isnt recommended. However we don't have to. This isnt any more difficult than a home woodworking shop dust collection and treatment system.

Bill's Cyclone Dust Collection Research - Doc's Orders
Bill's Cyclone Dust Collection Research - Projects

In fact its easier because with a little forethought an energy scavenging wetscrubber can be far more close coupled than a distributed set of shop tools. We are working with a temperature differential that is assisting draft, and as a group we are for more likely to have the tools and experience to make this stuff than the average woodworker or general public.

You can also benefit from careful proportional observation when looking at a given component. If after the researching there is still engineering doubt you can run the numbers. Its fairly obvious at this date that any official oversight from government will proscribe any activity you might contemplate, but they have to catch you first. Check your ordinances and odds are if your in any suburban or urban area your rights to employ a solid fuel are already proscribed. Better to address the root cause of any complaints with plausible deniability of the required certifications, then to be reported and forced to pony up the cost of a luxury car.

Finally as far as energy costs, your already investing in the fuel, if adding a few blowers and pumps enables you to scavenge it for home heating or something more ambitious its offsetting energy your already paying for.

these may give folks some ideas
Combined cycle
5916140 (pdf)
5899067 (pdf)
Hydraulic accumulator

[RegionalChaos]

I have done a fair amount of forging in a shop that had one chimney, a coal forge and a woodstove. The forge had a very large hood over it, and the woodstove had a short stack that just directed the smoke under the forge hood and into the forge hood stack. The forge had a draw pipe hanging down. We never had many smoke issues in the shop, it seemed to work very well. The forge stack was probably oversized though, and I think there was a fan in the stack somewhere that was sometimes turned on.

[Hofi]

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Sucsses
I Do Not Want To Go Into The Thoretical Discusion And The Proffetional Ingeneering Of Chimnies. What I Say Here Is Based On Waht I Do And Did At My Smithy And School And It Works Fantastic And Very Symple And Cheap On The Long Run.
1 The Chimny Is 12'' Made Of Stainless Steel Not More Then 0.4 Mm Which Is Aprox 1/64'' The Hight Is 10' And One Can See In The Foto That The Chimny Is Out Of The Building Seating On A Squer Tonnel 13''x13'' That From The Center Of The Fire To The Center Of The Chimny Is 4' One Can See Allso The Cover Without Hinges To Clean The Ash Every 6 Years.
The Squer Tonnel Is 4 Degrees Down And Not Up ,if U See There Is No Hood To The Chimny Because The Hood Is Disturbing The Colume Of Air To Run Up Freely So The 4 Degrees Down Helps The Rain When It Is Raining To Stay Out Side And Not To Stream Into The Forge.
The Tunel Inside The Smithy Or The School In That Photo Is Cut In 35 Degrees So The Upper Side Is Over The Center Of The Fire And Instantly When We Put The Fire The Suction Is Working Very Good .there Is No Hood To Disrurb And No Need For The Hood.
At First When One Thinks That Stailess Steel Is Expenssive On The Long Run No .because Of The Sulfor In The Coal Fire The Regular Chimnies Are Rustting Very Fast And In Many Places Within Two Years U Must Change The Pipes.
The Stainless Chimnies At My Smithy And School Are In Use From 1992 Its
Now 16 Yeas And They Are Like New!!!
2 In Germany It Is A Mast Bylow To Have Possitieve Suction That Is Done In Maney Verssions You Are Not Alowed To Build A Smithy Without Possitieve Suction. To Reason Is That Many Days In The Year The Temp Is To35-45 Degrees And Then The Chimny Is Working Backwords Into The Smithy.
Ingeneering Is Very Good But They Also Make Mistakes.at The School In Berlin That Is In An Urban Area They Where Porced To Put A New Vetilation System With Speciel Filters To Colect All The Dust Ash And Other Chemical Impurities That Went To The Air And Disturbed The Population Around.
And It Cost A Lot A Lot Of Mony. The Moment They Put It On The Hole System Explodes And Went On Fire Luckyly People Wre Only Injured.
3 In Many Places In Europe They Put A Copper Pipe Spirle In The Chimny To Heat The Water That Are Running Into The House Into A Heat Themoss Collector And The Have Hot Water All The Time
Hope It Helps A Bit
Hofi