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boosting propane forge temps

This is a discussion on boosting propane forge temps within the Problem Solving forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; I appreciate the warnings from others on CO as it a real hazard in non open areas in which propane ...


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  #21 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2007, 12:01 AM
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Default Safety on Propane Forges in Enclosed Areas

I appreciate the warnings from others on CO as it a real hazard in non open areas in which propane forges are operated. We tend to "overfuel" propane forges resulting in high CO output. That is one reason they have dragons breath as some of you call it.

This should be reminder to all as we operate propane forges in our enclosed shops during the winter.

One other item I wish to point out is all propane cylinders have a pressure relief valve on them they may relieve in the case of over pressure and for other miscellaneous causes, ie mechanical failure. If the valve relieves it would fill the basement with an explosive mixture. This the one of the reasons the cylinders say on them do not use or store in an enclosed area. Propane gas is heavier air which makes its use in basements problematic as it tends to collect. A relief valve opening, a leak or failed ignition could cause pockets of gas to collect.

Natural gas is lighter than air and disperses more readily.

I doubt your insurance company and local fire marshall would look kindly on this device being operated in your basement.
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  #22 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2007, 03:52 AM
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Hi IJohnson
Have you welded in a gas forge before? If not something to consider is that your forge does not need to bring steel to sparking to be at a welding heat.
Seems like a major bummer to have a brand new forge that is not doing what it should. If you have not welded in gas before try to get someone who has to give it a try. If you have lots of experince well this doesn't apply.
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  #23 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2007, 11:22 AM
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Gas forges do a poor job of mixing and burning the air and propane . You can often dramatically improve the performance of your forge by putting some firebrick or refractory rubble on the floor of the forge.
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  #24 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2007, 12:10 PM
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What kind of steel are you trying to weld? Mild steel welds at a higher temp than higher carbon steels
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  #25 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2007, 12:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dodge View Post
What kind of steel are you trying to weld? Mild steel welds at a higher temp than higher carbon steels
Im welding an old high carbon 1/4" thick file to a 1/4" piece of mild. The first few welds took fine and Im wire brushing and grinding the faces between welds so they're plenty clean. Also sprinkling borax between layers before welding so thats not the issue either.

P.S. lets keep the preachy safety B.S. to a minimum. Im 21 and have been forging since i was 10. I don't know much but im not a complete fool.
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  #26 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2007, 01:36 PM
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Although you may have all the safety issues in your situation under control (and I am glad you do), the IForgeIron site is a reference to all that read the material, today, next month, or next year in the site archives.

Many times the new blacksmith is not aware of there being a problem with safety, and the experienced blacksmith sometimes needs reminded about the dangers. I would rather read about the dangers (or any other safety issue) one more time, than read the obituary of someone that was uninformed.

Jim Paw Paw Wilson was an experienced blacksmith that knew better, chose to ignore the dangers, and is no longer with us (yep it killed him). It does happen.
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Old 12-30-2007, 02:16 PM
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"When I was a boy of 14, my father was so ignorant I could hardly stand to have the old man around. But when I got to be 21, I was astonished at how much the old man had learned in seven years." Mark Twain

Although we never met, Jim "PaPa" Wilson was my friend and we exchanged e-mails and art work over several years. He was one to preach safety and caution with his Drill Sargent's zeal and would have no problem taking a person down a notch for being stupid, some thing he did to me on several occasions. On the day he poisoned himself with metal fever burning the galvanization off some pipe to make tables for his "Dream Shop" he had chased several people out of the shop because he "knew the danger"

Much is offered here take what you need, give what you can, this information is not only for you and me, but also to the others who follow with interest the discussion.

And to Glen and the others thank you for providing this forum.
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Last edited by habu68; 12-30-2007 at 02:32 PM.
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  #28 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2007, 04:17 PM
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Sorry to hear about J.W.. Drinking lots of milk can help but it won't make you immune to zinc fumes. There are lots of respirators available that are approved for protection against zinc oxide fumes.
No offense meant but you guys are really going off on a tangent to what the original subject(propane forge temperatures) of the post was.
thanks anyway
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  #29 (permalink)  
Old 12-30-2007, 06:51 PM
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Keeping you alive in a basement shop is our first concern. Our suggestions should cover that part at this point. But only you know your circumstances, so play safe.

As to getting a hotter fire and bringing things back on topic:

a friend uses propylene in a forge
Ron Reil's site talking about the Mongo burner
look at a heat recapture device
reduce the size of your door opening increasing the back pressure
add a small blower and increase the fuel pressure
a small blower will boost your temperatures
check and see if one of the jets is plugged
Is the refractory in good shape
"drax torch" the principles of the torch could be used in a blacksmiths forge burner
Do you try coating the insides with ITC 100
try put some firebrick or refractory rubble on the floor of the forge
Mild steel welds at a higher temp than higher carbon steels

Please gave us additional specific details, and the results of implementing the suggestions, so we can take another look at the problem and provide more suggestions. Photos would be a great help.
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