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blow out at 3500

This is a discussion on blow out at 3500 within the Problem Solving forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; Howdy: well after pulling the valve and all...the baseplate is cracked...BIG crack from the inlet port right on out to ...


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  #11 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2006, 06:41 PM
JPH JPH is offline
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Howdy:

well after pulling the valve and all...the baseplate is cracked...BIG crack from the inlet port right on out to the edge...after talking to the folks at Northman they suggested that since I do not have any idea as to why the thing cracked that I should replace the whole valve.. Now I don't have a hydraulic test bench so I have a new valave coming in from them along with a new baseplate, these folks bent over backwards to help me and even sold me one at wholesale cuase there wasn't a distributor close to me... Talk about customer service...it is refreshing in this day and age to see a company go that extra bit to help "a little guy" out....And they want the old valave back to see why it did this..they said at 3500 PSI it should of "switched over" to bypass if it loaded above that.. Great folks those are!!

So it will be here in about a week......oh the threads are 1/2" pip thread for a "tubing" connection....I already have the new fittings coming if from the house of hose here in Henderson........now...do I dope these connections???

Anyway, thanks for all the advise...I do appreciate it...now how do I put in a over pressure relief vale and where on the line to I put it and where do I run it to???


Fun fun fun in Henderson, Nevada

JPH
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  #12 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2006, 07:43 PM
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Jim If you can find a distributer in my area,,Glendale/Phx I will pick the part up and stick it in a brown truck...need pics of all sides and data to take with me to pick part up Rich Hale
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  #13 (permalink)  
Old 12-11-2006, 07:50 PM
JPH JPH is offline
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Rich:

I appreciate the offer...but the parts are already on their way to me from Northman...Like I said they really were a GREAT HELP..It's nice to know that a company will do that to help out one of their customers...

THANK YOU...if you need anything from up this way let me know....dice clock..."Shady Lady" tokens...ya know the usual Vegas stuff...Pics of Elvis on Black velvet....

JPH
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  #14 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2006, 03:47 PM
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If its a tapered pipe thread, use teflon.

I personally use teflon tape not the liquid pipe dope.Seems to be less messy and less likely to get in the hydraulic system.

Just make sure you get nothing in the valve stay a thread or 2 away from the end of the fitting.

For the pressure relief valve, I'd install it on the pressure line that makes the ram extend. I'd most likely just add some fittings at the valve and have it t'd off before it changes to hose.

Last edited by Chris Pook; 12-18-2006 at 03:49 PM.
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Old 12-18-2006, 05:01 PM
JPH JPH is offline
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For the pressure relief valve, I'd install it on the pressure line that makes the ram extend. I'd most likely just add some fittings at the valve and have it t'd off before it changes to hose.>

Chris:

I was thinking I might put it in right in front of the solenoid where the ingress goes in. This is where it blew and well..if I put the relief valve there it SHOULD prevent any sort of excess pressure buildup before the valve and well..that should do it right?? Now where do I vent the pressure relief valve to?/ do I have to run a new return to the tank or can I splice in to the return from the cylinder?? I will say that running a new return to the tank would be easiest as it's just a matter of running a hose and a couple of fittings...

JPH
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Old 12-18-2006, 07:07 PM
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that will work as long as its after the check valve from the pump.

relief goes to the tank.
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  #17 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2006, 07:10 PM
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Hydraulic pressure is equal pressure in all directions, so as long as you put the relief valve on the high pressure side, it really doesn't matter where it is.

In my experience tephlon tape is only good for water and air lines, but I never said I knew everything
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  #18 (permalink)  
Old 12-18-2006, 08:52 PM
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Just as a refresher course... if it threads together by hand ( fingers ) it is not pipe thread. O ring is straight thread. JIC is a flare. Neither need dope or tape. THese are things you folks know but just thought I'd bring it up. Tapered pipe thread of course needs doped ( if you prefer tape ). Either sealant of course should stay outside of the system. O ring or JIC can either one be over tightened as well ( which is my experience with teflon on pipe thread ). We all different. High pressure hydraulics are dangerous systems and should be treated with extreme care when maintaining ( 4 wire ). Of course these would be flex lines I speak of. Standard steel lines and fittings deserve same care. Low pressure is of course dangerous as well (2 wire ). If you suspect you have a leak and pass your hand over the suspected leak, high pressure hydraulics are capable of amputating the appendage and injecting you with oil. Be safe. My nickels worth.
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Last edited by Ten Hammers; 12-19-2006 at 07:44 AM.
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  #19 (permalink)  
Old 01-04-2007, 10:16 PM
JPH JPH is offline
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Howdy!!

Ok..I got Julius up and running WITH a over pressure relief valve installed and he's back to squeezing things A-OK..

I have attached a photo of what I did....man that base plate cracked.. the hole is an oval!!! There were chunks of iron in the valve port and one of the solenoids is jammed...methinks that is what caused the overpressure...

Anyway it should be dealt with now...it was an expensive lesson but a lesson well learned.

JPH
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Old 01-05-2007, 12:11 AM
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Wow, I've been turning wrenches for 15 years on farm equipment and never seen a valve body split like that. I'm glad there were no injuries with that failure.
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