Blacksmith and Metalworking Forum
This is a discussion on Anvil help within the Problem Solving forums, part of the Blacksmithing category; I just started back to school at the local vocational school learning the welding trade. At our class, there is ...
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I'm no expert on anvil repair but depending on the material its made from, I'd be tempted just to heavily gouge the material along the cracks and use a torch to preheat it and weld it up but like I said it depends on what its made of..
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If it's a cast iron bodied anvil (vulcan or fisher) just use it till the ends fall off and continue using the center part. If it's a cast steel anvil gouge, preheat and weld is a good way to go---though if you put too much heat into it you may need to re-harden the face. If it's a steel faced wrought iron bodied anvil it will be harder to weld up due to the silicate stringers in the WI but you could try. If its a totally cast iron Anvil Shaped Object use it as a doorstop. Wire brush the side and see if you can find a trademark; if so we can probably tell you how it was made. Remember that hornless heelless anvils are very typical of anvils for most of the world---the japanese swordmaker's anvil has no horn or heel yet they are considered to do good work.... Thomas
__________________ Thomas |
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Just a note on the gouging route...If you go this way be sure to grind all the gouged area as there will be carbon deposits that will cause HARD spots in the weld causing premature cracking. My$.02 worth.
__________________ GOD is Good, ALL the time! Member: SCABA, ABANA, 4StatesIronMunchers |
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Thomas, 1/16 or more needs to be ground off the gouged area if an air arc is used because of the carbon precipitation, but I have never had a problem using oxy-acet gouging tips.
__________________ Irnsrgn Knowledge must be shared or it lies dead in the mind. The Blacksmith must use Hammer and Flame to force the iron down the path of his own choosing. I usually find it much easier to be wrong once in while than to try to be perfect. |