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Originally Posted by Farmer Phil  Thanks for all the ideas fellas. I'm on my third blade. It's a bi-metal variable 10-14 TPI. Got it from McMasters. Their chart says use variable blade for titanium. They also say use 2-4 TPI for my size stock, but for my blade length (64.5") 10-14 TPI is the fewest teeth they have. My previous blades both snapped. (I'm still learning how to use a horizontal band saw. Think I got all the guide bearings set right now.) I'll cut some steel with the blade in there now to see if it still cuts. Wouldn't that be a hoot if it's just dull? Anyway, guess I'll try and track down some folks who know more and can make more blade specific suggestions.
I don't want to use a torch. I'd really bugger this thing up then. It's also a too hefty a chunk (2"x4"x6") for hot cutting (for me anyway).
I got it as scrap for $10 a pound. I understand retail goes for over $100 per lb. |
Phil, no offence to mccmaster-carr but you should call up J&L industrial and ask to speak to one of their experienced machinists/tech's and describe them your saw and your process. Seriously, you will be glad you did. I used to live by a J&L in chicago, there were impeccable with answering machining questions like this. Chances are you are not using the right blade/lubrication/power/speed requirement. Cutting billet Titanium is an advanced process and if it is taking 6 hrs to cut through that billet your blade is most likely work hardening the material as it is cutting.
Titanium also has a springy quality which can result in oscilation during cutting and end up with rather light cuts and a byproduct of excess heat. You may even notice that your cut on your saw is not that clean of a cut due to the inefficiencies in your cutting method.
Check out this link and then i would try J&L or even KBC and talk to an experienced machinist.
Cool Tips for Cutting Titanium
Cheers,
Av