Hello Again,
I've attached a picture of some of the pipe bells that led me to open this thread. They are 3-inch schedule 10, 2-inch schedule 40, and 1 1/4-inch schedule 40.
Forging pipe has been a learning experience. I've been using the guillotine tool, the anvil, and a large 90-degree V-block. The guillotine tool draws the metal, so when I tried to take the 3-inch schedule 10 down to 1/2 inch I.D., it got too thin and tore. I had much better luck with the hammer and V-block. For the smaller pipe, the anvil step works. I can also take the pipe down freehand on the anvil, but I think the V-block gives a bit better control to keep it moving evenly without collapsing. Yes, it seems to behave better at a red (not orange) heat, but if I do too much when it's cold, it splits the seam.
With regard to the chimney effect, I've been cutting the pipe to length first and then welding a light porter bar on to one end. This avoids taking a heavy length of pipe in and out of the fire. The chimney doesn't burn my hand either, but I still need to block the end when it drafts coal smoke out from under the hood.
Parkinson's book refers to using pipe and tubing, but no special info on the methods to work it.
Again, thanks for all the suggestions. I've got a 3-inch schedule-40 in progress which is down to 1/2-inch I.D. with little loss of wall thickness. I'm taking pictures as I go so perphaps I be able to post again when it's done.
Walking Dog
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