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I did the counter boring this morning right outta the gate. Used a regular drill bit to get most of the depth of the counter bore and then the counterboring bit to flatten the "ledge" that is the bottom. This is much faster than just using the counter boring bit, and it helps preserve the delicate sharpening that gives the square cornered ledge.
I set the tup tube top down on the welding table and put the tup solid in place. I fussed with alignment and then clamped and tack welded the solid to the tube. Then the clamps were undone, the tup layed on the lay out table, the top and bottom mandrels were installed. They are 2" solid round cold rolled bars that permit the tup to be rotated during welding and machining. The bottom mandrel bolts in place, but the top mandrel is long, connects to the tup solid's top down in the hole, and extends out the top of the tube. A thick, stepped washer fits over the mandrel and into the tube top to keep alignment right, and a compressive bushing is used to remove all slop in the fit. I have a pair of "saw horses" with rollers that cradle the mandrels. Once I get all this stuff set up I can weld continuously while rotating the assembly. I did a tig root pass and then migged multiple passes. The gold lens in the big window helmet really enhances the welding experience and makes tig almost easy. As for mig, I like to use a zig zag pattern on the last couple of passes, across the V, to tie in the sides of the V with the natural hand movement during this high deposition welding. I let it cool a long time.
Meanwhile I made some pieces and reset the mill table. Finally I donned my leathers and carried the still quite warm tup to the mill and got the mandrels into their cradles. Put fresh carbides in the cutter. Then did the 8 flats of the octagonal tup, about 15 minutes per flat. At this point it was quitting time.
My graphics guy has turned over a new leaf. He only made me wait an extra week this time!
I set the tup tube top down on the welding table and put the tup solid in place. I fussed with alignment and then clamped and tack welded the solid to the tube. Then the clamps were undone, the tup layed on the lay out table, the top and bottom mandrels were installed. They are 2" solid round cold rolled bars that permit the tup to be rotated during welding and machining. The bottom mandrel bolts in place, but the top mandrel is long, connects to the tup solid's top down in the hole, and extends out the top of the tube. A thick, stepped washer fits over the mandrel and into the tube top to keep alignment right, and a compressive bushing is used to remove all slop in the fit. I have a pair of "saw horses" with rollers that cradle the mandrels. Once I get all this stuff set up I can weld continuously while rotating the assembly. I did a tig root pass and then migged multiple passes. The gold lens in the big window helmet really enhances the welding experience and makes tig almost easy. As for mig, I like to use a zig zag pattern on the last couple of passes, across the V, to tie in the sides of the V with the natural hand movement during this high deposition welding. I let it cool a long time.
Meanwhile I made some pieces and reset the mill table. Finally I donned my leathers and carried the still quite warm tup to the mill and got the mandrels into their cradles. Put fresh carbides in the cutter. Then did the 8 flats of the octagonal tup, about 15 minutes per flat. At this point it was quitting time.
My graphics guy has turned over a new leaf. He only made me wait an extra week this time!
