Highest Reputation Content

First off I got to say that the motivation to pen this came from a conversation I had with Brent Bailey and his desire to do something very similar to post on his website….  I in no way am intending to rip off Brent’s idea and I ask him to forward me a copy of his writings to post on the site once he has it put together….   But during the conversation I just felt like it was time to say a little something about our lost friend, something I had been meaning to do but had a hard time actually sitting down to type it out.    There is a lot that can be said about Grant.    He could be difficult to deal with, frustrating and goofy….  He had a strange sense of humor that some found hilarious and others offensive… But one thing that no one could argue is Grant was the real deal.   At least for me he took a long time to warm up to…   I tried for several years to get him help me with some mechanical projects that where over my head with no luck.  He blew me off kind of like you would any kid asking silly questions but I kept at it.    Finally one day I got him to come by and look at something I was working on and basically  like the flick of a switch he opened up and started to share his knowledge..  I think a big part of this was he saw that I was trying, that I was doing and making mistakes… I was not just talking about these things to talk about them but I was spending the time to work through it.    From that point on Grant taught me many lessons,  many of which I didn’t want to learn but he thought I should….   Often I would call up and ask how he had done something in the past and he would reply “I don’t remember”…  So I would try and fail and call back up and tell him what happened and he would start right in…  Well what I did was this and this and you need to change that….     He knew all along what I need to do but he wanted me to try and learn something before he gave the answers…   I think there is a lot of wisdom and respect in that..    Grant had my back….   Sometimes he would complain, bitch and whine about how much time something took he had quoted me $500 to build for me, some die or tool, and how it should have cost double that … And then not accept any money when it came time to settle up….   One time I really needed some help figuring out some industrial production forging process and he told me it would cost $500 for him to come show me…   In the big picture having the “pro” come and help me out $500 was a small price to pay…  But after we worked it out he more or less demanded that we spend the next 8 hours tearing down and repairing a hammer that had issues just for the fun of it….    Grant really was a funny guy…  He was very giving in his own way while sometimes seeming otherwise….   He was very open with some knowledge and very protective of other bits…    Grants heart I think was always in the right place no matter how stand offish he might act…     I really miss the guy…   We talked often and honestly I got to where I sometimes wouldn’t answer when he called,  not because I didn’t want to talk to him but because  I knew I would likely have  to spend an hour before  I could get off the phone and back to work..   Some might think its strange for guys who had 25 years between them to be friends but we shared a lot , laughed a lot and I can’t speak for Grant but I sure enjoyed being around him.       I don’t know all of Grants history but I have very little problem saying that Grant may be the most influential  American blacksmiths to lived in the last 100 years.   Some would say that Francis Whitaker,  Samuel Yellin or one of many other great smiths…. But let me ask you this… Who as a single man has had a direct hand in creating and furthering the craft…  Grants tools have been used to create thousands and thousands of works of art,  Grant will not have books written about his work,  He doesn’t have fancy scrolled bits hanging in prestigious places in the way more recognized blacksmiths might… But Grant has had a bigger impact and influence than any of them ever will to the actual creation of forged iron.    You would be hard pressed to enter any modern blacksmith shop anyplace in the country that does not have at least one of Grants tools in it…. And if you can find one I would bet that at least one of the tools that is there was influenced by one of Grants products…  As far as I am concerned Grant perfected modern tongs….   He made them everything they should be and nothing they don’t need to be…  he brought mass produced textures and swages to beginners and experts alike allowing people to both have more fun and make more money as a blacksmith…     Grant took industrial scale forging process only profitable for big business  and perfected them to make incidental things for a niche market in a little shop with equipment he built and modified.    We will probably not see another Grant in our lifetime in the blacksmithing community….  His influence and innovation will carry on long after his departure because every time you pick up a tool he made a piece of his soul is put into that work….       All I hope is now and again you stop and give a bit of respect and thanks for our friend.   When you pick up that pair of tongs you thank him for all he has done for the blacksmithing community…  You see him for what he was… A good person who did good work that helped every last one of us in some way….

Over the time I have been visiting this forge I have seen a lot of people come through and ask about all sorts of designs of forges. Most of the people posting such threads are actually new to using a gas forge and often new to smithing. I have advised many of these newer smiths to first build a brick pile forge, use that a while and then go to something more serious once you figure out how big you will need. So now I wanted to make a definitive post as a guide for these people.

The forge will have an internal size of 9" x 4.5" x 6.5", or 263 cubic inches. It is, however, easily reconfigured to be smaller, shorter, wider or whatever you need for your particular tasks in the shop. That is the beauty of a brick pile forge, it can be reconfigured at will and allows the smith to see what size they need in the end. This forge is not the end all-be-all of smithing forges. It is a starter forge and as you work with it, you will learn a ton about how forges work and will grow into more efficient systems. The brick pile forge is so versatile that occasionally I will toss one together just to do some specific task that doesn't work well in my main forge.

Forge Materials:

• About 10 to 15 Soft insulating bricks, rated 2300 degrees farenheit.
• 3 Hard firebricks.
• Metal Table

Burner Materials:

• 1" to ¾" Black Iron T fitting (1" across the top and 3/4" on the leg of the T)
• ¾" to to 1" Black Iron reducer
• ¾" x 6" Black Iron Pipe Nipple
• High Pressure Propane Regulator
• Propane Pressure Gage
• ¼" Propane Rated hose with Fuel Threaded ends  (available at welding supply stores)
• ¼" Propane Rated Flashback Supressor (available at welding supply stores)
• ¼" Fuel to normal pipe thread converter  (available at welding supply stores)
• ¼" Ball Valve
• ¼" Brass Pipe Nipple (4")
• ¼" Brass pipe Nippel (smallest)
• ¼" Brass Pipe Straight Connector
• ¼" Brass Pipe to 1/8" Copper Compression Fitting
• (2) ⅛" Brass Pipe Compression nuts
• 24" flexible copper pipe
• ⅛" Compression to normal pipe Nipple
• .025 MIG Tip
• Propane rated thread sealant.

Tools (Basic):

• Copper Compression Hose Flare Fitting
• Tap for your MIG tip thread (varies by the tip brand)
• Tap for ⅛" pipe thread
• Couple of Crescent Wrenches
• Drill
• 2" Hole Saw
• Hacksaw
• Reducer for ¾" to drill bit size for the tap.
• Plumber's torch with click starter

Tools (Best):

• Drill Press rather than drill
• Dremmel with Cut-off wheel

Propane Supply Assembly
  

First tap the 1/8" compression to normal pipe nipple with the tap for your MIG tip. The right tap to use depends on the tip brand that you are using. If you ask a welding supply store they can supply you (or at lest tell you) the right size. Then cut about ⅛" off of your MIG tip and put propane sealant on the threads and screw it into the tapped fitting securely. Next attach the copper flexible hose to the compression fitting by putting on the compression nut and then flaring the tubing and finally screwing the compression nut on the fitting you tapped. The goal of the flexible copper tip is to get a good nice gas tight seal without constraining yourself with rigid pipe. Next put the compression nut on the other side of the tubing and flare that. Take the ¼" pipe to compression fitting and attach the other end of the flexible copper tubing to this fitting. Then attach the converter fitting to a small pipe nipple then to the straight connector and then to the longer pipe nipple. The extra parts make this assembly easy to use on other burners and other projects in the future. Finally attach the 4" brass pipe nipple to the ball valve, then attach the ball valve to the fuel to pipe thread converter. use propane sealant on all threaded connections.

Fuel hoses are backward threaded. You learn "Righty tighty, lefty loosey" to understand normal threads. Fuel threads are the reverse of that and this is a safety feature that you don't want to violate. The converter changes the normal pipe thread into fuel threading. This should be screwed right into a propane rated flashback suppressor. This device will keep a flashback from reaching your bottle if something should go badly wrong. You can potentially skip this device but when it comes to exploding propane bottles, I prefer to play it safe. Attach the flashback suppressor to your propane fuel hose and then the other end of the fuel hose to the regulator. Screw the pressure gage on the regulator and you have the jet assembly done. Again remember to use propane sealant on all threads, if you didn't, go back and take it apart and do it right.

Burner


The burner is a standard "Frosty" T burner so named after the forum user Frosty who created it and has a propensity for wrestling large trees.

To tap the back of the T, get a reducer that will screw into the ¾" side part and reduce it to just barely the size of the drill bit you will use for the pipe thread tap. If it is smaller, that is fine, if larger that isn't optimal. This reducer will serve as a guide to the drill to position the jet exactly in the middle of the T leg. Drill out the burner and then tap it for the ⅛" pipe that the MIG tip is attached to. Next attach the black iron pipe nipple and the ¾" to 1" reducer to act as a flare.

If you don't know how to drill and tap, then you should probably research that and practice before embarking on this project.

Now screw the burner jet into the burner and then test the burner.

Testing the Burner


Check for leaks using dishwashing fluid mixed with water or, even better, child's bubble solution. If you see bubbles that is a leak. Twist it tighter, make sure you have a good amount of propane sealant and so on. Light the burner with a plumber's torch (this is the safest way to light your forge). Another great trick for checking leaks is a cheap medicine syringe used for children. Fill it with bubble fluid and squirt on your junctions. Note that while I am testing my son is sitting there with his hand on the bottle valve and watching what is going on. His job is simple, if something goes bad, he cuts the propane at the bottle.

Forge
When we say brick pile, we aren't kidding, its literally a pile of bricks on the table. Use a metal table and you can fabricate one if need be. Mine is fabricated to hold forges. Start with three bricks in the center of the table configured as shown


Add a hard firebrick in the middle. This will heat up in the forge and serve to regulate the forge temperature. Make sure the brick is at least the width of one brick from front, back and sides.


Next add vertical bricks to the side of the hard brick.


Now we test out the roof bricks. We want to make sure that we have the right width.


Now we add some hard bricks to the side to support the vertical bricks from falling. We also set up a couple of bricks to serve as the back door.


Now we have to drill out one brick for the flare. These bricks are very soft so be careful or you will shatter them. We use a hole saw to drill the brick. Put plywood under the brick to support it and make sure you can drill all the way through without hitting the table. When you drill, go very slow and steady. Don't press hard or the brick will shatter.


Now we place the flare brick on top of the pile, stick the flare through and clamp up a support for the burner. The bricks won't be strong enough to support it.


Now we seal up the roof using a brick on edge to serve to give a roof over our front door bricks.


Finally turn on the burner to about 5psi and open the ball valve while the plumber's torch is in the forge and enjoy the glow.


Enhancements:
The bricks can be coated with ITC-100 wherever they are exposed to heat. This will make the forge hold a lot more heat. You can also make a quick form the size of a brick and pour half an inch of castable over the brick (like Kastolyte 30) and then coat that with ITC-100. Make sure the first time you fire the castable you go slow. This will allow a much hotter face. You can put in blown burners, change the configuration and a dozen other enhancements.

Comments and questions are welcome.

Dave:

- You are an idiot.
- I am making in the hundreds of thousands of dollars per year
- The price of materials is unimportant, I just pass the costs on to my customers who are happy to pay whatever I charge
- You have to struggle and build your business, reinvest in expensive equipment, and make stuff as nice as I make

- Anyone who fails is either a fool and/or lazy.
- I don't know anyone having problems with the economy
- The figures that one in five people in this economy is unemployed is pure fiction
- I don't have any problems so are therefor to be admired by the rest of you.
- I make stuff for the high-end market, as there is always a market for selling to rich folks.

And furthermore:

- You are an idiot.
- I am making in the hundreds of thousands of dollars per year
- The price of materials is unimportant, I just pass the costs on to my customers who are happy to pay whatever I charge
- You have to struggle and build your business, reinvest in expensive equipment, and make stuff as nice as I makeDave:


- Anyone who fails is either a fool and/or lazy.
- I don't know anyone having problems with the economy
- The figures that one in five people in this economy is unemployed is pure fiction
- I don't have any problems so are therefor to be admired by the rest of you.
- I make stuff for the high-end market, as there is always a market for selling to rich folks.

I do most of the cutting in my shop with a Radiac 7 1/2 Horsepower abrasive cut-off saw, which takes 16 inch wheels.  In 35 years of constant use, I have never had any issues with this machine.  Now I know why they have cast iron wheel covers over the blade.  I was cutting pieces of 3 1/2 inch round 1080 tool steel for a job I have, and had put on a new saw blade for this purpose.  About halfway through the heavy barstock, I heard a "boom", a loud explosion, and saw the brand new saw blade disintegrate, right before my eyes.  Now I know why these machines have cast iron wheel covers.  Had the safety covers not been on, I would be a dead man!  If you calculate the radial velocity of the outside of a 16 inch wheel, you will see why it is imperative that you make good use of the safety guards on all machines in your shop!

I have to take issue with discouraging the newbie in what is supposed to be an educational forum. While I agree with Mr. Powers that castable ceramics would likely be prohibitively expensive, they may indeed have refractory application - perhaps in a burner nozzle itself. Whether or not there is practical application for the material Mr. Cable has brought to our attention, it is premature to summarily dismiss his post as irrelevant. Any material that has a high heat resistance certainly merits discussion with relation to blacksmithing.

Mr. Cable, I hope that you will not be discouraged from making further contributions and seeking further information on our site based on this experience. We are all here for an open exchange of information for mutual benefit because we love and wish to preserve this ancient craft. I have looked at your previous posts and it is clear that you, like many of us, are getting your start with limited resources and employing the kind of inventiveness that makes this trade/hobby so fascinating. You will have failures and successes, good ideas and bad and it's all part of the learning process. I, for one, applaud your willingess not only to take initiative, but to give something back by contributing ideas. Thank you.

Save yourself some time and just send that thing back or just toss it in the trash. I have a swedish cross pein made by peddinghaus. Peddinghaus has been forging high quality tools for years. I have a vary long handle on mine, maybe 13 inch's. It take lots of practise to get good hammer control, but when you can swing it just where you want and have the hammer on a long handle there is a serious amount of force in every blow.  And its only 35$. The corners come sharp just like a new anvil would. soften then slowly use the hammer some then adjust more to your liking. Mine has been going strong for 8 years now.

I'm with you ("ergonomic ")  Its amazing after all these thousands of years someone thought of something new,.........a way to get people to believe they invented something new. The placebo effect is rampant, after the first few million hammer blows perhaps they will understand....however, maybe not.....some still think there was no moon landing. Just imagine....using different   angles of trajectory  when you strike? unheard of....pure genius,  to bad none of  the master smiths  before us never thought of that one....imagine the work they could have accomplished

If I don't yell at the other drivers how will they learn how to drive?

Point take RSmith and Marksnagel...I'll be nice and not list why I stopped looking for metalwork information on the bikerbuild programs and then why I stopped watching them at all.

I'd watch a show about Grant telling the camera at one moment why he is doing this operation and then the next about why they need to get the xxxx out of the shop cause they were in the way and asking the wrong questions
OR
any smith from Tom Joyce to Nol Putnum to Tom Ryan talk about the design needs of the client and how they will make tooling and forge the work to meet those needs.
OR
an elderly smith retired and sitting around simply talking about what was and will never be again...with some Ken Burns film style working the photos and sound track.

BUT
what often makes it on TV is a version of People's court mixed with Jerry Springer and some adverts to fill in the time between...featuring a smith that is not a smith with as much depth in the trade as a puddle doing work that is not purposeful.

Ric

No offense meant guys, but your questions show your lack of both of understanding of the question and the people asking it.

Matt, yes you flew a helicopter for only 15 minutes, but you flew it correctly for that 15 minutes.

None of these people asking are asking to be "ace helicopter pilots", they want the equivalent of your helicopter flight, to do it well once. They don't need to know anything more then the basics about harmonics, balance and design which could be taught in an afternoon.

The logic of answering the "I want to make a sword" here is very flawed, everyone seems to jump to the conclusion they want to go into business making swords and/or be a competent swordsmith NO they just want to do it once and have help to do it.

I have noticed a number of folks  like to ask questions about threads that require lengthy explanation and pics. And after all that effort not one word. A simple thanks would be nice................mb

Being a man and not a boy, I take full responsibility for crossing the line in that thread myself.  This is about blacksmithing, and not politics.  I apologise for my role in this.  I am in favor of reinstating him, with the proviso that all of us, including him, should steer away from namecalling.  Although diametrically opposed to his viewpoints, I would jump in front of a mack truck to defend his right to espouse his opinions.  In the heat of the fray, many of us, including myself, stepped over the line on this one.  For that, I sincerely apologise.

Many newcomers to blacksmithing have little knowledge of the blacksmiths basic tools, what they are called, and when they are used.

This list, originally courtesy of Glendale Forge http://www.glendaleforge.co.uk may help. Thanks also to Frank Turley, and others for contributing the American Terminology and descriptions to allow cross referencing

I have added some other terms also in common use that were originally missed off the list.

The pictures illustrated are mostly of the tools I had in my workshop, some are home made, some bought and others inherited, but all should help to give a visual identification for you to hopefully understand and relate to what may be being discussed.

Blacksmiths' Tools Explained

The Blacksmith's Tools have changed little if at all in design over the centuries and an attempt is made here to explain briefly some of those in more common use today.

I hope you find this useful when looking for, talking about, or using new tools


Anvil: Something solid to forge metal on. A London pattern anvil with a single bick (or horn or beak) is usually all that is required and should be used on a stand so that the top is level with the clenched fist. Ideal weight of anvil 3 cwt. Other substitutes and types can also be found and utilised.

Ball Tools: Top and bottom tools used for forming ROUND or SQUAT BALLS or knobs on shanks or otherwise as required

  

Bending Forks: See also Horns and Scrolling Wrenches can be used in Hardie holes, vises, or as wrenches Is in effect a pair of horns on a handle, so that in conjunction with another such wrench or anvil horns one can adjust the shape of scrolls or make light bends. They can also be utilised for making specific bends/items Hickey is an old US term for Scroll Wrench From Frank Turley.



Bolster or Punch Plate; A plate used to support material when it is being punched or drifted, (or it could be a swage block) with different size holes, round and square, and slots in to accommodate your punches and drifts.

                                                              

Bosh, Slack Tub, or Slack Water: A water tank attached to the front of the hearth for quenching hot metal. (Slack tub or slack water; From Frank Turley)

Bow pliers; also called Collaring tongs are used solely for the opening, closing and fitting of collars to a pair or cluster of bars to act as a permanent fastening

Breeze: Forge fuel, can be coke or coal, usually quite small pieces.



Brush (heavy wire): It is absolutely essential to remove scale and slag from a hot bar prior to commencing forging to prevent it being splashed into eyes or over bare arms. It is best to use a brush made with coarse long wire, fitted to a handle perhaps 14" long.

                                                        

Butcher: A cutting tool, particularly for quickly roughing a shoulder. The one illustrated nicks all around the edges of a square bar, giving a guide ready to use the SIDE SET for setting down a tenon shoulder on the Heel bar, then a SET HAMMER is used to square up the tenon shoulders

                                                      

Centre punch; For the accurate marking prior to drilling or forging.

                                                              

Curved Butchers; can be used to make cut out sections and holes in plates, often used for making decorative back plates and hinges Butchers can be handled, rodded, or hand held.

  

CheeseFuller; A fuller made with a face resembling a wedge of cheese, enabling one to gently neck in, or reduce the thickness of a bar.

                                                       

Cold chisel: For marking out and cutting steel cold, if used on hot steel they will need re heat treating. The radius on the cutting edge enables location and the ability to cut curves.

                                                     

Cold Set / Cold cut: A cutting tool for nicking bars cold prior to their being broken or cut. The cutting edge is radiused, and the body is wider/thicker than the HOT SET See comparison picture (In US called Cold cut if hafted. From Frank Turley)

                                                      

Collaring Tongs; or Bow pliers, are used solely for the opening, closing and fitting of collars to a pair or cluster of bars to act as a permanent fastening.



Cone or Mandrel; Used to set and correct rings after they have been formed, and they come in various sizes. Some fit in the hardie hole, others in a vise, or floor standing.

                                                              

Creasng Iron or Creaser (From Frank Turley): A specific type of Fuller, Used for putting in shaped grooves in horseshoes where the nails fit.

Domer; US term (see Rivet snap) From Frank Turley

Drifts; Are used to open up punched holes, or to form a taper, or a finished size

Barrel drift; Used to widen punched holes to a finished size, they can be knocked through due to the
taper on both ends



Taper or Carrot drift; Used to widen punched holes, leaving a taper in the hole useful for handled tools.

                                      

Flatter; as its name suggests, is employed in making the surface texture of the iron work piece flat or free from blemishes left by the hand hammer. Can be hand held, Handled, or Rod/Wire handled, the wire handle allows for better seating onto the workpiece, supporting the flatter loosely and not transmitting shockwaves as a rigid handle can do.



Fullers, Fullering Irons or Creasing Irons or Creasers; having radiused blades, are used for necking in or swiftly drawing down a bar. Can also be individual, Having a profiled finish to put in shaped grooves ie as in horseshoes, centre lines on blades to lighten and strengthen them, or edging features.

If half round, fullers are asked for by their diameter in inches, Fullers are not always half round, they can take various shapes, For example a British Farrier may use a Fuller, or Fullering iron to put the nail grooves in a horseshoe, In the US, the tool is often called a Creaser or Creasing Iron for putting in the "Nail Crease" in the shoe. Sometimes we put it in lengthwise or crosswise sharp bottomed fuller marks for design elements, borders etc. From Frank Turley

                                 

Hack; (US term) see Side Set From Frank Turley
                                                            
Halfpenny Snub End Tool: For rounding up a Halfpenny Snub end, unfortunately only useful for a specific size.



Hammer: For general work a ball pein hammer of 11/2-2 lbs is advisable. An identical spare should always be kept handy in case of emergency.

Hand Square: A Blacksmith's square for use with hot metals.

Hardie: Fits in the square or 'hardie' hole in the anvil and is used for cutting hot iron at the anvil.



Hearth: Sometimes referred to as Forge; fired on coke beans, coal or other fuels. Forced draught from a fan or blower, produces intense forging and welding temperatures quickly. No real substitute for this original equipment.

Hickey (US): is an old term for Scroll Wrench From Frank Turley.

Horns: Either fitting in the vice or in the hardie hole, allow the bending or adjusting of, in particular, scrolls and similarly shaped bars



Hot Set or Hot Cut; A finer edged tool than the cold set, and used for cutting off hot metal, again hand held, handled or rodded



Hump tools; (US contributed re tazmig33 iForge site) are radius blocks that support the workpiece (hammer or tool) when drifting. In some cases the front of your tool is at a different height than the striking side so there are many different height hump tools, used like a bolster or punch plate. see Brian Brazeal's demo on hammer making

Leg Vise: A Blacksmith's Vise designed to withstand general abuse, heavy bending and sledge-hammering. The shock is taken on its leg set into the floor. This is not a precision instrument and should not be likened to an Engineer's Vise.

Mandrel or Cone; Used to set and correct rings after they have been formed, and they come in various sizes. Some fit in the hardie hole, others in a vise, or floor standing.



Monkey Tool: Used for shouldering up a swaged tenon, the elongated sight hole being simply to ensure that the tenon does not foul inside the Monkey.



Punches; Round punch Used to make round holes in hot metal, Square punch Used to make square holes in hot metal,
These can be hand held, handled, or rodded.(wire handled)



Rivet set and snap; Can be one combined or two separate tools used to Set up the rivet, (close all the pieces together prior to riveting) and the Snap used to finish the dome head of the rivet, it can also be used to support a domed head when riveting to secure the pieces together. (Domer is a US term From Frank Turley)



Rope Tools: Mould or swage iron in such a fashion that when twisted the bar will resemble a length of rope. Limited range of uses



Set Hammer: Not a hammer as such, but is a tool used struck by a sledge to produce a very definite square shoulder on a stepped forging such as a tenon on a heel. To drive the set hammer well into the corner, the best results are gained by directing the blow diagonally, hitting the corner of the head.



Scrolling Tongs or Round nose pliers; are used chiefly in making Scrolls, holding the bar on to the Scroll Tool and subsequently adjusting the tip of the scroll.



Scroll Tool or Scroll Jig: A former or shaper on which to reproduce a number of identical scroll motifs. Note the ends are elevated to allow starting the scroll before pulling it around the rest of the form using scroll wrenches or scrolling tongs to control the curving. You will also see one that is less tighter than the others, this is for snub end scrolls that will not fit into the tighter rolled scrolling tools.



Scroll Wrench or Bending Forks: Is in effect a pair of horns on a handle, so that in conjunction with another such wrench or anvil horns one can adjust the shape of scrolls or make light bends. Hickey is an old US term for Scroll Wrench From Frank Turley.


                                                        
Side Set, Hack (US): Used for squaring up a shoulder prior to using the set hammer. (Hack From Frank Turley)



Slack Tub see also Bosh; A water tank attached to the front of the hearth for quenching hot metal. (Slack tub or slack water; From Frank Turley)

Slide Valve; Used to control the air flow into the forge, and is fitted between the blower/fan and the tuyere or tue iron. The one illustrated is fitted to the ash dump for a bottom blast forge, and the tue has not yet been fitted



Spring Tool or Veining Tool: A tool designed as a multi-purpose press invaluable for ribbing, veining and raising Acanthus leaves, making obsolete a whole range of Stakes. Not only making leaves more quickly and accurately, but also is used for decorating sheet and making rosettes etc.  Can also be a top and bottom tool linked by a loop of steel 'spring' to keep tools aligned when in use.



Swage, (swedge sometimes, rhyming with sledge). From Frank Turley: Top and bottom tools for forging a round section. You can also have square swages. Handled, rodded or hand held top tools, the lower part fits in the hardie hole and can be used seperately, for instance when forging half round sections for ball collars, or backing for when forge welding bundles together to help keep the strands in close proximity making it easier to fuse them together. Specified by diameter produced in inches



Swages can also take other shapes than a near-half round. Again, in farriery, we sometimes swage light horseshoe stock by driving it into a bottom swage that has a sort of double-vee indent side by side. This leaves a raised carrot shape almost at the centre. When the stock is drawn through and turned over, you get the reverse image, a nail groove a little eccentric from centre. I have often used a bottom "shallow swage" (home made) for giving a Suffolk latch handle a nice appearance. (From Frank Turley)

Swage Block: Rectangular block of Iron with a variety of shapes around its periphery for swaging on. Also has various shapes of holes through its face which act as bolsters. Must be used on a stand.

Tongs; are used for holding hot pieces of metal and are made in a variety of sizes and strengths strictly according to the size and shape of bar the Blacksmith intends to hold. It is of paramount importance that the correct size of tong is used in each particular application or the bar may well jump out of the tong and an accident occur. The use of one tong for a variety of jobs is therefore inviting trouble.

Tuyere or Tue Iron; In the hearth where the air input meets the fuel it can be plain hole(s) in a plate, or in a water cooled jacket.

Twisting Wrench: Simply a device for imparting torque to a bar to give it the twisted effect, second only to the scroll in its importance as a decorative design.

                    
                                            
Veining Tool (See Spring Tool)



                              
As you can see, many of these traditional tools need a striker to assist the 'smith to be used correctly, hence the development of the new alternatives which do the same tasks as the traditional tools, but can be operated by one person, many only needing a simple adaptation, others being newer tools like the Blacksmiths helper or Smithin' Magician and guillotine tools etc.

That's progress and innovation, and that is what the craft is all about.

it was not unions nor liberals that chased away manufacturing in america.  It was tax breaks for companies to export our jobs that chased away manufacturing in america.

Well here are a few of the vises I use and my "Big" vises... There is a 4" in the pic with the 8" and 9" for scale....   The 9" is 215lbs...     The one on the stand with the Wilton machinest vise is a 5 3/4 and the stand alone one is a 6 3/4..

I haven't missed anything.  What I see is probably the only person who routinely gets bent out of shape from questions from beginners is you.  Do you honestly think that you will change the way every Newbie asks questions Steve?  Do you think that every Newbie that comes here is going to scour every sticky before they ask questions?  Probably not, so you will probably continue to get irritated and feel that they are trying to take advantage of you and your information.  You probably won't change the way it works so maybe you need to change.

If you are constantly upset by these questions IGNORE THEM.  It's not up to you to police the site and chastise members for not doing prior research. You refer to them as trolls.  If I'm not mistaken, a troll is someone who posts something in order to start fights and get a rise out of other members, not someone who asks a question that is legitimate in their mind, but not legitimate in someone else's mind.

IF you already have a bladesmith forum why are you still here constantly getting irritated.  Do you like getting irritated?  In post number 13 you use words like 'clutter', 'lazy', 'desk jocky hearsay'.  These words make it sound like you have nothing but utter contempt for anyone who is not a seasoned veteran of the site and is not familiar with all that's been discussed before.  I often see people reference how many topics and posts are on IFI.  There's a LOT of information here.  The info is not always easy to find.

where can I get a Miller hammer ?  Is there a worldwide distributor ? I've read on the web its the first hammer ever designed to be able to use with either the right OR LEFT hand...it actually improves your striking ability by 60% ! !  I'm very excited to be one of the first on the list for this NEW TYPE OF HAMMERING SYSTEM. I think the price of two thousand dollars is cheap for such a life changing tool,...I'm considering buying a second for my grandson,  he's three, because I also heard no matter how much it weighs it seems light as a feather. I commend your expertise in designing a tool like no other smith has ever done before. If I may be so bold as to ask if I could join your vast  distributorship network, or better yet can I start a franchise ? This tool will change the world of smithing forever ! ! !

Most interesting.
Check it out; If in the future someone wants you to teach them (or tell them) how to make a sword, and you don't want to, say "no".
It is a very ancient technique, and very effective.
Or, if you are smart, offer them a course in bladesmithing (as per my esteemed colleague, above).
Whatever it is you do, the kind of shrill histrionics coming from some of the alleged grown-ups (poor things, they've been hurt before!) in this thread should not be included in your tactics.

I believe this is one of the most important and responsible topics that could be brought up here at I Forge Iron.
Thank you all for taking a responsible stand on this topic!
Even if you disagree with my opinion, please error on the side of safety with this issue!

To disarm new craftsmen of the potential dangers of welding or cutting galvanize products may have a serious outcome.
I feel a great in-justice may be done to unwary readers when someone who is not fully informed about the reality of the cause and effect of Galvanized Poisoning give there untried opinion that says it’s OK, that all you have to do is just drink milk.
I think milk may help settle your stomach if I remember correctly, but what about the long term effects?  

It seems as though some of the content contained in a few posts that I have read over the last few years that have mentioned the topic of “Galvanized, zinc, fumes, and milk”, have a tendency to water down the real or potential long lasting effects of Galvanize Poisoning.  

They would say something like “I have welded on galvanize for 263 years and all I done was drink milk and I am just fine”.
Of course I am exaggerating.  But posts like that seem disarms the reader into thinking that it is no big deal.

BUT, galvanize poisoning is a big deal and an issue that should be taken as a priority to learn how to manage the use of it safely.

I can assure you it is a big deal because I have experienced the stark reality of the very real and long lasting problems that derive from welding or being exposed to Galvanized Steel fumes with out proper ventilation.  

When I was young (in my 30’s) I needed a job real bad to support my large family that I had adopted.  So when we would say something about the lack of ventilation in our shop, they told us that they had a pile of applications on the desk, that if we did not like the conditions that existed we could be replaced.

I have had to live with the outcome of this issue first hand.  And it was not pretty!

So with out going into the details of a real long story, I will tell you this;
Back in the 60’s at the University of Utah hospital, when I was going through treatment they also called it “Products of Combustion that had settled the Bone Morrow” or Galvinize Poisoning. I am no doctor; I am just repeating what they told me.

Story: I was the one of the lucky ones out of the four welders who worked in our shop at that time.
Within two years, one of them died of a heart attack; he was only in his 30’s.  They don’t know what caused the attack.
I lost the full and effective use of my left hand, arm, and leg.  It took between 4 ½ years to 5 years for me to have full and comfortable use of my arm and leg again.   Plus I had to have a stomach operation from taking too many aspirins that I was told to take by the doctors. .

Oh, and the guy who took my place is now a total vegetable.  With in a year after taking my place, he had the same symptoms that I had.  He never recovered.  
And the fourth guy only did bench welding and was never required to carbon arc and weld all day inside of garbage trucks or on galvanize pipe.  He was just fine.

No doubt that some people will never have a sever reaction to galvanize poisoning as other people may have.
We need to recognize that what will adversely affect one person will not necessarily have any effect on another person.  Just like medication reactions have on different people.

The old (WWII) doctor who treated my fellow welder gave us the following summary of information.
During the Second World War a problem developed within the vast numbers of welders that supported the war effort.  The government had hired thousands of women to become welders in the arms plants.
All of the able bodied men were off fighting the war.  
Health problems started to show up with some of the welders.  It turned out to be galvanize poisoning.  But the problem was that it only showed up randomly.

The Doctors scenario was that when several people were doing the exact same type of welding and had the same exposure to fumes, some got ill, and some did not show any ill affect at all.

This same old doctor came to the conclusion that it was dependent on an individual persons ability to resist the effects of how, and if the same amounts of exposure would affect them at all.
I believe each contributor needs to be heard and what they say needs to be evaluated by the reader.
Even if you disagree with my experience, at least I Forge Iron have given us a platform to give our views to banter back and forth.  
In the end, the reader has to make a decision of how close to the edge of life they want to live (or be sick, or die).
My very best to you all!
Ted Throckmorton

Thank you,John,very kind of you to give such a detailed answer.
Amazing stuff,gaining "volume" by such means,facsinating.
Quite a difference as compared to the anarchic,free-form directions that the forging has taken lately,i really like those photos of completed objects.
Reminds me of how many styles of ironwork there really are,and how important it is to know at least something about each,to look at a number of works made in a given style.
For each way is consistent within itself,and it's so hard to look at it with an inexperienced eye...(Even worse,as an ignorant craftsman to be yanking elements from unfamiliar styles and jumbling them together without rhyme or reason,something that i'm often guilty of).
Thanks again,and good forging!

As you like pics Jake, here are a few more of what the little leafs may grow into.

First the small leafs I have laying around from previous projects,

  

  

  

  

and then on to the Tijou gates at Hampton Court Palace where these techniques were used to their full effect, and one reason we must preserve the 'old' methods. These pictures and others of the internal ironwork were taken last year and I believe they are currently partially restored (a very long term  and costly project)

                 

Enjoy

Nice anvil, too bad it will spend its time in a museum.

I am not going to go through the collecting vs. using arguement again.  This is my last words on this topic:  

My collection has all of the artifacts, patterns and even some of the building and cranes from the original Fisher foundry.  My collection is a historical study of the product of this company.  I have been working on a book for some time now, and hope to finish it in a few years.  I have spend over 10 years and a boatload of time and money putting this collection together.  All of my collection was gathered on the open market and available to anyone.  And my research of this company is also going to be used in the new version of "Anvils in America" that Richard Postman is finishing now.  I sent him many corrections of the history of the company that he had wrong in his first book.

I do use a 300 lb Fisher anvil in my home shop, and a 100 lb Fisher anvil at school where I teach.  I will not live long enough to even start to wear one out.

Some day, this collection will be dispersed.  I am the caretaker for a few decades.  This is the ONLY complete collection of Fisher anvils of all sizes that exist today.  Hopefully, it will stay together after I am gone. If anyone out there knows of another, please let me know.

The folks who think they have a good tool that was bought at HF are people who have never worked with a quality tool.If they had then the best recommendation they would assign to HF is "acceptable".
It is always a crap shoot at import stores.You have a chance that they got everything close to right and something may last a reasonable amount of time but it`s just as likely that it won`t last the week or even seriously hurt you the first time you try to use it.
I have never been able to understand the mentality of people who are willing to gamble on something like that in order to save a few dollars.
The stuff isn`t right folks and we all know it.You`re better off going down to the pawn shop or flea market and buying there.If it`s a brand name tool that hasn`t been abused then you stand a better chance of buying something decent.At least it won`t explode when you try to use it.
Nothing beats a smooth running,well balanced,powerful,durable and dependable tool that operates with little to no vibration.You don`t buy those types of tools at Harbor Freight.