BP0125 Blueprints
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Wolfe Head

by Jr Strasil aka Irnsrgn

 

 

 

 

Quick wolfshead demo--I am using 3/4 square hot rolled bar. Take a heat on one end and fuller and draw the end over the inside rounded edge of the anvil as shown about a third of the depth of the bar, keeping the width the same, this will be the brow of the head and where the eyes will be placed. It is best to exaggerate this head a little like a cartoon character especially the nose, which is what I am starting here. Remember that as we draw and narrow the nose or snout it is going to get longer.

 

 

Reheat the end and draw and taper the end down to about 5/8 inch square, leaving the bottom of the snout flat.

 

 

Fuller the sides even with the brow. 1 inch diameter fuller dies in the guillotine is what I am using here.

 

 

It should look like this after fullering.

 

 

Work the sides of the snout down and let the nose part (the very end where the nostrils go) swell up as shown, gently chamfer the very ends of the nose to round a little.

 

 

It should look like this from the top, notice the nostril area chamfering.

 

 

The view from the side.

 

 

At a bright red heat, round up the muzzle, keeping the nose area flat with just a little taper in toward the bottom.

 

 

Bring the head to an almost yellow heat and clamp securely in the vise, I am using an angle iron spring vise helper in the picture, to attain an even and larger clamping area on the stock. Using a slitting chisel with a slightly rounded cutting edge, slit the mouth as shown.

 

 

With the same heat, mark the nostrils and eyes with a center punch. its more accurate and easier to mark these at a dull red heat so you can position them and not have to fight the heat and glow of a really hot head.

 

 

Reheat the head and using an eye punch for the eyes and a center punch for the nostrils, with the top of the head towards you, put the eyes and nostrils in to suit.

See the "Creating an Illusion Blueprint" for giving the head character.

 

 

Mark and start the ears using the same heat and the slitting chisel.

 

 

Reheat the head with the jaw up so you don't burn it off and finish cutting the ears. it should look something like this at this point.

 

 

This is a side view, notice the attempt at a fang on the top jaw, that broke off as I got in a hurry and tried to do it to cold. Don't make the same mistake, learn from mine. Also notice that it is fullered behind the ears to simulate a neck, I fuller before I bring the ears out fully, so I don't damage them, but do not try to adjust the ears out cold or at dull red heat as they will usually break off, also be careful not to burn the ears off when heating to fuller the neck. You could fuller before cutting the ears if you wanted to.

 

 

Another view

 

 

This is not the same head, but notice that the ears have been filed to remove the sharpness and the centerpunch was used on the snout to simulate whiskers. If you have not tried an animal head, this is a good excuse to try one, you have something to go by, this example is rather crude as it was done quickly, try to improve on it.

 

 

My attempt at a bears head

 

 

A bears head to be welded on a fireplace poker handle.

 

 

My attempt at a dogs head, notice the simultaion of a collar on the neck.

 

 

My attempt at a horseshead.

 

 

Another view.